















^< 






- ''^'/•d* 






























oko 







a' 



-'"*i>. 







*1 "^^r. C> 


































«> 















• 













-^-^ 
























o 






3^r 


















MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 



• 'liSiS- . 



dg'ATa.. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, 

BY H. E. COLTON, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District 



of Pennsylvania. 






C. SHERMAN & SOX, PRINTEES, 
Corner Seventh and Cherry Streets, Philadelphia. 



P 



JL 



:\i 



PREFACE, 



In the few pages whieli have here been collected 
together, it is not the Author's intention to attempt 
anything of a high literary cast, or to go into details 
as to the region of which he treats ; but simply to ^ 
place before the world some facts in relation to it, 
that persons unacquainted with its beauties may be 
induced to go to the mountains of Western ^N'orth 
Carolina, and to furnish for visitors such items of 
information as may enable them the more to enjoy 
a trip there. Much matter here contained has been 
heretofore published in some one of the newspapers 
of the day, and hence portions of it may not be new 
to some readers ; yet it is hoped that the little volume 
may meet with favor from all. 

The work was prepared through a love for his 
native State, and a desire to see her merits appre- 
ciated. And, even in these few pages, the Author 



PREFACE. 



has to complain of tlie indifference or carelessness 
of those whom it was intended to benefit. It is 
hard work to help those who will not help them- 
selves. 

The Author must acknowledge his indebtedness 
to Major J. C. Turner, Chief Engineer of the Western 
North Carolina Railroad, for the outlines of the map 
accompanying the work. 

We trust that many who will look over its pages, 
may be induced to spend a few days or weeks or 
months in the Mountains. They will there find in- 
vigoration for the diseased body, and ample food for 
the mind which has a love for the beautiful and 
sublime. All such will realize the truth that 

'^ The mountains holier visions bring 
Than e'er in vales arise : 
As brightest sunshine bathes the wing 
That's nearest to the sties." 

AsHEBOROUGH, N. C, February, 1859. 



"^ 



CONTENTS. 



Asheville, . 



CHAPTER I. 

• • • 

CHAPTER II. 



Introduction, . . ^""^^ 

' 13 



Morganton-Its sun^oundings-The Piedmont Springs of 
Burke-Hawk's Bill and^Table Rock, . . / 

CHAPTER VIII. 
LinviHe Falls-The Gingercake Rock-North Cove and the 



16 



CHAPTER HI. -^ ' 

Rontes to reach Asheville-The Swannanoa Gap Roi^ . 20 

CHAPTER IV. 
The Hickory-Nut Gap Route, .... 



26 



CHAPTER V. 
The Routes from South Carolina-Saluda Gap and Jones's 

Gap-FlatRock— Hendersonville-Cffisar'sHead-White- 
side Mountain, and Cashier's Valley 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Route via Wilkesborough-The Valley of the Yadkin 
-Wilkesborough-Happy Valley-Lenoir-Hibriten, . 40 

CHAPTER VII. 



47 



51 



Xll CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IX. 

PAGE 

The Vicinity of Asheville — The White Sulphur Springs — 

The Million Springs — Pleasant Drives, .... 61 

CHAPTER X. 
The Blkek Mountain — The Mountain House — Journal of a 

Party, 64 

CHAPTER XL 
The Roan Mountain — The Great Bald Mountain, . . 72 

CHAPTER XIL 
The French Broad River and the Warm Springs, . . 76 

CHAPTER XIIL 

Pleasant Country Stopping-Places — Carson's, on the Catawba 
— Harris's, at Chimney Rock — Sherrill's, at Hickory-Nut 
Gap — Penland's, at Flat Rock, on Toe River, in Yancey — 
Alexander's, and A. E. Baird's, on the French Broad — 
Alexander's, on the Swannanoa,. 83 

CHAPTER XIV. 
The Western Counties — Haywood, Jackson, Macon, and 
Cherokee — ^^H&^ynesville — Pigeon River — Franklin — A 
Winter Trip — The Nantihala — Valley River — Cherokee 
Indians, . . 85 

CHAPTER XV. 
Productions of the West, Agricultural and Mineral — Wild 

Flowers — Tree Growth — Wild Animals and Reptiles, . 94 

APPENDIX. 

The Pilot Mountain— Salem — The Piedmont Springs of 

Stokes — Shocco Springs — Kittrell's Spring, . . .105 



/ 



MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTION. 

It has been the custom, in years past, for the seekers of 
health or pleasure, as the warm sun and miasma of the low- 
lands warned them of approaching danger, to turn their atten- 
tion towards the North ; and it is only of late that the Virginia 
Springs, with all their invigorating powers, have been the 
stopping-place of others than the proud sons and daughters of 
the Old Dominion. But even yet the mountains of Western 
North Carolina, with mineral waters equal to any, and a cli- 
mate superior to any other, are comparatively neglected. And 
we see even prominent citizens of our own State, year after 
year, journeying to Saratoga, and other watering-places of the 
North. They are familiar with every spot at Niagara or Sara- 
toga, but cannot give an idea of the western part of their own 
State, except as they have scantily derived it from others. 

Such an accusation, however, cannot so truthfully be brought 
against our brethren of the State of South Carolina. For 
many years it has been their custom to resort to our mountains 
for the promotion of their health, for recreation and pleasure. 
Many of the lovely vales of Western North Carolina are adorned 

2 



14 ■ " MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

witli their neat cottages. A pride of State and section, wliich 
prevents their spending at the North that which can be kept 
at home, has caused them to find in our State a climate more 
pleasant than that of the North, mineral waters of equal efficacy, 
a home more comfortable, and company whose tastes and feel- 
ings more exactly coincide with their own. And to the shame 
of North Carolina be it said, that the first notice, and the first 
patronage of her lovely transmontane section, should have come 
from another State. And the portion which they have visited 
and developed is but limited, in comparison with the great 
mass of country which remains comparatively unknown : a 
section of country covered with grand mountains, lovely and 
fertile valleys, and traversed by streams which, like everything 
emanating from the heavenly region, are pure and spotless as 
the crystal. 

The greater portion of Western North Carolina is a large 
mass of table-land, situated, one might very properly say, upon 
the top of the Blue Eidge. This table-land is bounded on one 
side by the Blue Ridge, which, after running almost north and 
south, turns westwardly, so as to become, for some distance, 
the boundary between the States of North and South Carolina. 
On the other side it is bounded by various ranges of moun- 
tains, all of which might be said to be but spurs of the great 
leading ridge. It is crossed by various ranges of mountains, 
many of them overtopping the surrounding boundary by fertile 
valleys, watered by streams of great rapidity and some size, 
and affording an amount of water power equal or superior to 
any other portion of the earth. A reference to the map, how- 
ever, will show the reader all these peculiarities of the region 
of which it is our intention chiefly to speak. 

The elevated situation of this table-land, its bracing atmo- 
sphere, fertile soil, and excellent water, all combine to make 
it a region of interest to any one who would seek refreshment 
for a care-worn body, or a place whereat to while pleasantly 



I 



CHAPTER I. 15 

away the hot summer months. Besides, this section embraces 
elevations of land higher than any other in the eastern portion 
of our Union, which fact should be an inducement to all to 
visit there, and a source of pride to North Carolinians. The 
White Mountains of New Hampshire have been, for years, a 
place for resort and recreation ; why should not the Black 
Mountains of North Carolina, with a climate certainly more 
agreeable, and a view equally as good, be so now ? 

There is, perhaps, no section, embracing so small a compasS, 
for which nature has done so much as that composing the 
eight counties west of the Blue Bidge. Filled with scenery, 
at once grand and beautiful, it is, too, blessed with a soil mira- 
culously fertile ; while in mineral products it is rich, almost 
beyond belief. Gold, silver, lead, plumbago, and copper are 
found in abundance, and iron in immense quantities and of 
the best quality. Such a section cannot fail to be of interest 
to the traveller, and should be inviting to the emigrant. The 
products of the vales and hillsides, when the appetite is taken 
into consideration, are, too, of a character such as would make 
the veriest epicures smile with delight. The butter, milk, 
honey, beef, and mutton of the mountains, are unsurpassed. 
And, while we confess that, at some of the stopping-places, 
but indifferent fare is obtained, yet there are many where one 
will find the delicacies, as well as the substantials of life, served 
up in the best style. 

The section embraced in the table-land west of the Blue 
Ridge, is composed of the counties of Cherokee, Macon, Jack- 
son, Haywood, Henderson, Buncombe, Madison, and Yancey. 
The chief of these, which we shall treat of as a resort for the 
stranger, are the last four : their position having caused their 
more rapid advancement into public notice than the others. 
To reach any of these counties, it is almost a necessity first to 
go to the town of Asheville : such is the position in which the 
mountains nin, that all roads ^eem naturally to converge at 



16 310UNTAIN SCENEllY. 

that point. And the traveller from the east, though he may 
stop awhile in the valley of the Catawba, seeks, as his resting- 
place, this city amid the hills. 



CHAPTER 11. 



ASHEVILLE. 



AsHEViLLE is finely sitm\ted in what might be termed a 
valley, through which flows the French Broad River, it having 
just received upon its bosom the Swannanoa. The rising- 
ground from the valley, upon which the town is built, enables 
one to obtain from almost any point within its limits, a fine 
view. Near the town, in what might be said to be its rear, 
arises a small chain of mountains, from several peaks of which 
are obtained excellent views of the surrounding country, but 
more especially that looking towards Asheville. The valleys 
of the French Broad and of Hommony Creek, are stretched out 
before the eye, a scope extending over many miles, and taking 
in as fertile a region as the sun looks down on ; while arising 
out of the valley, the solemn, gaunt Mount Pisgah lifts its sugar- 
loaf peak to the skies, as if disdaining the more common for- 
mation in the mountains around. Far in the distance, through 
the low gap of Hommony Creek, may be seen the black sum- 
mits of the Balsam Mountain, in Haywood County, a distance 
of about forty-five miles. To the northwest, the eye tires as 
it sweeps over the seemingly interminable ranges which rise 
above and beyond each other. 

Satiated with the gaze, the beholder turns to the valley, and 
traces amongst the rich green fields the course of the French 
Broad, — not as yet pent up in its rock walls, and foaming and 




iiHiii ii'i'!iii!i;iii iiiiiiiiii 



CHAPTER II. 17 

boiling in its mad career, but here comparatively a placid 
stream. Taken as a whole, the view is beautiful; and so it 
is taken, for the eye sweeps over it with a glance, but never 
tires its sight. It is considered, by some, to be the finest 
mountain-view in the West. No one should visit Asheville 
without seeing it. 

Lanman, in his '^Alleghany Mountains,'' thus speaks of 
Asheville and this view : " With regard to Asheville, I can 
only say that it is a very busy and pleasant village, filled with 
intelligent and hospitable inhabitants, and is the centre of a 
mountain land, where nature has been extremely liberal and 
tasteful in piling up her mighty bulwarks for the admiration 
of man. Indeed, from the summit of a hill immediately in 
the vicinity of the village, I had a southwestern view, which 
struck me as eminently superb. It was near the sunset hour, 
and the sky was flooded with a golden glow, which gave a 
living beauty to at least a hundred mountain peaks, from the 
centre of which loomed high towards the zenith. Mount 
Pisgah, and the Cold Mountain, richly clothed in purple, 
which are from twenty to thirty miles distant, and not far 
from six thousand feet in height. The middle distance, 
though in reality composed of wood-crowned hills, presented 
the appearance of a level plain, or valley, where columns of 
blue smoke were gracefully floating into the upper air, and 
whence came the occasional tinkle of a bell, as the cattle 
wended their way homeward, after running among the un- 
fenced hills. Directly at my feet lay the little town of Ashe- 
ville, like an oddly-shaped figure on a green carpet ; and over 
the whole scene dwelt a spirit of repose, which seemed to 
quiet even the common throbbings of the heart." 

The mountain alluded to has been named, — probably from 
its being so much frequented by ladies and gentlemen as an 
evening walk, — Beau-Catcher Knob. 

The town of Asheville is adorned with many beautiful 



18 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

private residences, the result of cultivated taste among its in- 
habitants, or the summer residences of citizens of South Caro- 
lina. While the broad yards of these make large the limits of 
the town, they yet are an attraction not to be dispensed with. 
Some one has said, that more praise is due to him who makes 
two blades of grass grow where one only did, than to him who 
conquers kingdoms; equal praise is due to those who, in a 
spirit of improvement, a love for the beautiful, and a taste 
for the refined, make gardens of waste places, and turn the 
barren hillside into blooming undulations. Such credit is due 
to some of the citizens of Asheville. One of the most luxu- 
riantly adorned residences meets the traveller's eye just as he 
leaves the Swannanoa River, to go into Asheville. It is the 
late residence of Dr. J. F. E. Hardy. 

The people of Asheville are everywhere noted for their hos- 
pitality. We have heard many remark, that in no town did they 
receive that attention from its inhabitants as in Asheville. A 
stranger, who is at all disposed to be social, can add much to 
his enjoyment, while sojourning there, by a free intercourse 
with the citizens. A residence of months among them enables 
us to say that there are few towns which contain a more gener- 
ous-hearted, hospitable, and moral set of inhabitants ; and our 
opinion is that expressed by almost every traveller. 

There are few public buildings of interest in the town. The 
court-house, a fine building, is situated on what might, with 
propriety, be called the culminating point of the town, as the 
hill there reaches its greatest height, and the town slopes 
gradually on every side. From the cupola of this building, — 
ninety-six feet from the base, — a fine view of the town and 
immediate vicinity is to be had. It is a pleasant place to sit, 
of an evening, to witness the sunset, and enjoy the cool breeze. 
The Female College is a building of some size, and the insti- 
tution is in a flourishing state. It numbered, during the past 
year, about' 240 pupils. There are three churches, — Metho- 



CHAPTER II. 19 

dist, Presbyterian, and Episcopalian, — in all of wliicli there 
is regular preaching. 

There is but little of an historical nature about Asheville 
which is of interest. The place was originally called Morris- 
town. It is, in comparison with some other towns of our State, 
of a modern date. The first court for the newly created county 
of Buncombe, — then embracing all west of the Blue Bidge, 
and sometimes called the Great State of Buncombe, — was held 
in an old barn, about three miles southeast of Asheville. It 
is not now standing. Bobert Yance was the first clerk of the 
court, and the record now exists in which his beautiful, round, 
plain hand is displayed. 

The hotel accommodations of Asheville arc excellent. They 
are three in number: the Eagle Hotel, the Buck Hotel, and 
the Buncombe House. The latter is not at present open, 
but will probably be so during the summer. The first is the 
stopping-place of the stage from and to Salisbury via Morgan- 
ton and Swannanoa Gap. The second, of the stage from and 
to Charlotte via Butherfordton and the Hickory-Nut Gap; 
also, of the stage from Greenville, S. C, via Saluda Gap, Flat 
Bock, and Hendersonville. The stage from Greenville, Tenn., 
via Warm Springs, and up the French Broad Biver, stops at 

Hotel. All are good hotels, and the traveller will, at 

any of them, receive kind attention and good fare. The Eagle, 
however, is the chief, and is, perhaps, more frequented than 
any other. It is now kept by Messrs. Patton & Blair, formerly 
by Dr. J. D. Boyd. It has lost none of its excellence by the 
change. Travellers will find Mr. Blair an accommodating 
gentleman. The Buck Hotel is kept by J. H. Gudger, who 
has been its proprietor for many years. It is a long-established 
house, located in the centre of the town, and has many cus- 
tomers. Travellers will be well provided for by Mr. Gudger 
and his able assistants. The Buncombe House is situated in 
a rather retired portion of the town, sufficiently near for all 



20 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

purposes, yet away from its dust and bustle. It is, perhaps, 
for this reason, a better place for those to stay who desire to 
spend some time in Asheville. But how, or by whom it 
will be kept, we cannot tell. Heretofore it has been well 
attended to. 

There is, in connection with the Eagle Hotel, an excellent 
livery stable, kept by Messrs. Sullivan & Patton, at which 
travellers, who wish other than the usual public conveyance, 
can be accommodated. Their horses are better than the 
average quality of such stock, and the prices about such as 
are general in towns. There has heretofore been one or two 
other like establishments in town. 



CHAPTER III. 

ROUTES TO REACH ASHEVILLE. 

Asheville, we have stated, is the converging point of all 
the roads west of the Blue Bidge. It must, therefore, be the 
same of all stage lines ; and, owing to its being the keystone 
to this great section, and formerly to the travel west, it is a 
distributing post-office. There are four routes, by stages, 
through which Asheville may be reached. Two in North Ca- 
rolina, one from South Carolina, and one from Tennessee. One 
of the routes in North Carolina, and upon which we shall first 
remark, is called 

the swannanoa, or morganton route. 

It extends from Salisbury, via Statesville, Newton, Morgan- 
ton, Marion, Pleasant Gardens, and Swannanoa Gap, to Ashe- 



CHAPTER III. 21 

ville. Without a remark upon its scenery, we might say that, 
simply as a road, and as a line of stages, it is the best by which 
Asheville can be reached from Eastern North Carolina. About 
forty miles of the route is travelled in the cars of the Western 
Extension, and the rest is all in daylight, over a good road, in 
good four-horse coaches. One of the editors of the iV! C. 
Standard says of it : — 

" On the mornino; of the 7th, I took the stasre for Asheville. 
Mr. C. S. Brown, formerly of Salisbury, but now proprietor of 
the Walton House, at Morganton, is the contractor on this 
route, and I do not believe there is a better stage line in the 
State. He has comfortable coaches, fine teams, and sober and 
careful drivers. I have no hesitation in recommending this 
route as far superior to any other going west. I have done a 
good deal of staging in my life, but never travelled on a line 
superior to this. Mr. Brown belongs to-the ^ Young America' 
class, and infuses vigor into all he touches. This route is the 
nearest, cheapest, and, by far, the best to Asheville.'' 

Statesville is a pleasant village, but not high enough to be 
called in the mountains. Its hotel, though, is excellent, and 
the traveller will never regret a stoppage there. The Female 
College is a fine building, and attracts some attention, but can 
only be seen in the distance by the through traveller. New- 
ton, further on, is a small, quaint town, of rather a German 
origin, with which the traveller will have but little to do. 
Morganton, the chief place in the route, is treated of in an- 
other chapter. In the railroad portion, thus far, are some of 
the finest pieces of architecture anywhere in the South ; and 
it would not be amiss for the traveller to defy^^-ailroad rules, 
and look out on the massive piles of granite over which he is 
passing. Leaving Morganton, we simply go through the vil- 
lage of Marion, and the next place of note which attracts the 
eye is Pleasant Gardens, near which, in the same valley of 
the Catawba, we find a stopping- place at Mr. Logan Carson's. 



22 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

This is a lovely spot. Nature did much, but the hand of art 
and taste has beautified full well. It miofht well be called an 
earthly Eden. And the beauty of the outside is but a type of 
the hearty welcome and excellent fare which await the so- 
journer within. This house is situated immediately upon the 
banks of Buck Creek, one of the prettiest mountain streams to 
be found anywhere, and within a few hundred yards of the 
Catawba. There are a number of fine drives hereabouts up 
the creek, a beautiful level running into the mountains, and 
either up or down the turnpike-road. It is one of the most 
attractive places to stop at in Western North Carolina. 

Leaving Carson's, the traveller proceeds, gradually ascend- 
ing, to the Swannanoa Gap. During this route, the Catawba, 
now a clear, pure, mountain stream, and its tributaries, are 
crossed many times. The swift water, as it dashes over the 
rocks, ever and anon resting in some pool, in the calm sweet- 
ness of repose, forms a^ pleasing feature in the route. From 
several points between Carson's and the Gap, fine views of a 
portion of the Black Mountains are obtained, and the high 
pinnacle of the Blue Bidge is in view at nearly every turn. 
Gradually the ascent of the mountain is made, the traveller 
passes the summit almost without knowing it, and is upon the 
great table-land of the west. Just at the Gap is a spring of 
excellent water, and of a very cold temperature. The travel- 
ler who drinks from it can say that he has drank from the 
head-spring of the Catawba Biver. Now commences the descent 
along the banks of the Swannanoa, with the exception of two 
or three miles so very gradual, that it has the appearance of a 
level, and, in q^ride' of eighteen miles from the Gap, Asheville 
is reached, just as the sun is setting beyond the western moun- 
tains, in all that crimson glory which is so peculiarly its vesture 
in mountainous countries. 

A writer says of this Gap and the Swannanoa : ''By noon 
the next day we reached the head-spring of the Catawba, 



CHAl'TER II r. Zo 

which is about fifty yards from the top of the Blue Ridge. 
There we stopped to take a lunch. 'Tis a wild-looking place. 
The spring is thickly overshadowed with pretty trees, and is 
surrounded, except on the side next the road, with a rich 
carpet of green moss. The Castalian fount on Parnassus could 
not have been more charming than this ; nor could it, think 
we, have more successfully inspired the bard, or the oracular 
priest. If one could not write sweet poesy there, or divine 
the future of man, ^twould be vain for him to try elsewhere. 
Waked by a noisy little storm-cloud from the nice nap to which 
the coolness and pleasantness of the place invited us, we be- 
stirred ourselves, and were, in a few moments, over the sum- 
mit of the Ridge, and descending into a delightful country. 
Nor were we at any loss for company. On both sides of us 
were clusters of the sweetest flowers of the Ridge; and, ever 
and anon, a merry brooklet coming from the Black and spurs of 
the Ridge, would dash across our path in frolicsome glee. After 
a few hours' travel, we discovered ourselves rolling alongside 
of that nymph of beauty, the Swannanoa, Its waters are un- 
usually clear and pure, and its grassy banks look as if they had 
been washed ; and the walnuts, sycamores, water-birch, hollies, 
and sugar-maples, which hang over it, throw down a deep 
shade upon its green-colored waters. When you come within 
five or six miles of Asheville, on one side of you is this river, 
and, on the other, splendid residences and rich farms. No 
one can fail to admire that part of the Grreat State of Bun- 
combe." 

Lanman, in his " Alleghany Mountains,'^ speaking of his 
trip over this Grap, says : " The other prospect that I witnessed, 
was from the summit of the Blue Ridge, looking in the direc- 
tion of the Catawba. It was a wilderness of mountains, whose 
foundations could not be fathomed by the eye ; while in the 
distance, towering above all the peaks, rose the singular and 
fantastic form of the Table Mountain. Not a sign of the 



24 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

breathing human world could be seen in any direction, and 
the only living creature which appeared to my view was a 
solitary eagle, wheeling to and fro, far up towards the zenith 
of the skv/' 

From any point between Morganton and Asheville, fine 
views may be obtained. The road is upon a ridge throughout, 
except when in the valley of the Catawba, the loveliness and 
fertility of which is sufficiently alluring; but, should one de- 
sire a grander scene, less of delicate beauty, they need only 
glance down its length, at the rugged mountains which seem 
to rise immediately in its course, but at whose feet it sweeps on 
in majesty, as if disdaining the obstructions which they seem 
to be endeavoring to push in its way. A fine view of the 
Table Rock, and Hawk's Bill, is obtained from a point in 
the Pleasant Gardens, just before reaching the river. There, 
too, may be seen the long, slow descent of the Linville Moun- 
tain, which, after vain endeavors to make itself a dam upon 
the course of the Catawba, first becomes '^ short-off",'^ and then 
dwindles away to nothing. The traveller who delights in fine 
scenery, cannot fail to be pleased with this road ; and if he 
keeps upon the look-out, will ever find something upon which 
the eye will rest with pleasure. 

As the Swannanoa Kiver is intimately associated with this 
route, we copy the following, which was written some years 
ago by a gentleman of Charleston, S. C. : — 



SWANNANOA. 

Swannanoa, nympli of beauty, 
I would woo thee in my rhyme ; 

Wildest, brightest, loveliest river, 
Of our sunny, southern clime ! 

Swannanoa, well they named thee, 
In the mellow Indian tongue ; 



^. 



CHAPTER III. 25 

Beautiful* thou art, most truly, 
And right worthy to be sung. 

I have stood by many a river 

Known to story and to song, — 
Ashley, Hudson, Susquehanna, 

Fame to which may well belong ; 
I have camped by the Ohio, 

Trod Scioto's fertile banks, 
Followed far the Juniata, 

In the wildest of her pranks, — 

But thou reignest queen forever, 

Child of Appalachian hills, 
Winning tribute as thou flowest. 

From a thousand mountain rills. 
Thine is beauty, strength-begotten, 

Mid the cloud-begirded peaks. 
Where the patriarch of the mountains,! 

Heavenward far thy waters seeks. 

Through the laurels and the beeches. 

Bright thy silvery current shines, 
Sleeping now in granite basins, » 

Overhung by trailing vines, /• 

And anon careering onward. 

In the maddest frolic mood, 
Waking, with its sea-like voices, 

Fairy echoes in the wood. 

Peaceful sleep thy narrow valleys, 

In the shadow of the hills ; 
And thy flower-enamelled border. 

All the air with fragrance fills ; 

"^ Swannanoa, — the Cherokee, — is translated "Beautiful." 
t The Black Mountain, — in which the stream has its source. 

3 



26 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

Wild luxuriance, — generous tillage, — 
Here alternate meet the view 5 

Every turn, through all thy windings, 
Still revealing something new. 

Where, oh ! graceful Swannanoa, 

Are the warriors who of old 
Sought thee, at thy mountain sources, 

Where thy springs are icy cold, — 
Where the dark-browed Indian maidens. 

Who their limbs were wont to lave 
(Worthy bath for fairer beauty), ^ 

In thy cool ajad limpid wave ? 

Gone forever from thy borders, 

But immortal in thy name. 
Are the red men of the forest ! 

Be thou keeper of their fame ! 
Paler races dwell beside thee ; 

Celt and Saxon till thy lands. 
Wedding use unto thy beauty, — 

Linking over thee their hands. 



CHAPTER lY. 

THE HICKORY-NUT GAP ROUTE. 

The route by way of the Hickory-Nut Grap, leaves the 
North Carolina Railroad at Charlotte, and proceeds through 
Lincolnton, Shelby, and Rutherfordton, across the mountains 
to Asheville. Leaving Charlotte, the traveller traverses a sec- 
tion of country noted for the fertility of its soil, and the 
generous hospitality of its inhabitants. The many handsome 



CHAPTER IV. 27 

residences whicli line the road, give evidence of the taste of 
their owners. To all who are acquainted with North Carolina 
history, it is sufficient to say, that this region was the home of 
the Alexanders, the Brevards, and the Grahams of the Revo- 
lution, to make every foot of it classic ground. The road 
passes near several iron-works, some of which have been ope- 
rated for many years.' A ride of about thirty-five miles brings 
the traveller to Lincolnton, where, if he be in the stage, he 
will probably take supper. A night ride, through Cleveland 
County, lands him the next morning to breakfast at the plea- 
sant little town of Rutherfordton, where he will most surely 
get that which will tempt and satisfy his appetite. At Wat- 
kins's excellent hotel, near the town of Shelby, which is passed 
in the night, is situated one of the best sulphur springs in the 
world ; but, owing to some cause, it is not fitted with such 
accommodations as it deserves. The Wilson Spring has no 
superior in the Union, as to the beauty of location or the 
curative powers of its waters. Nevertheless, we cannot, viewing 
it as it was during the last summer, advise any one to stay 
there. 

Leaving Rutherfordton, the traveller begins to ^nter the 
mountains in reality. The road winds along the banks of 
Broad River, crossing it several times, — the river foaming and 
boiling over rocks and rapids all along the course. Occasional 
glimpses are caught of the distant mountains, and every little 
while the road winds along the edge of a frightful precipice; 
but, for the most part, the road is not intensely striking until 
after we leave Mr. Harris's. This gentleman lives about fifteen 
miles from Rutherfordton, just at what might be calle(J the 
foot of the mountains ; and the traveller, at his leisure, can 
find no better place to rest his weary limbs, or satiate an appe- 
tite acquired in the bracing mountain air. An excellent view 
of the mountains is obtained from this house. In fact, just 
here is the beginning of the grandest panorama of mountain 



28 Mountain kcknery. 

scenery which, is to be found easy of access anywhere in the 
West. The highest colorings of the imagination fail to picture 
a tithe of its sublimity, and the artist's pencil would need the 
tenfold power of a Titian, or a Raphael, to make the canvas 
glow with an atom of its magnificence, or give the beholder a 
faint impression of the awe it inspires. 

The road, for eight miles, winds upon the banks of the 
Broad River, the contortions of whose troubled waters are be- 
yond description. They curvet and lash around each rock, as 
if caressing it, then scornfully, seemingly with coquettish 
glee, dash on, singing a wild song, as if murmuring at the 
barriers which nature has put in its course. In the midst of 
this wild scene are the falls of Hickory -Nut Creek. This is a 
small stream, which rises on the top of the mountain, and, after 
a course of a mile or two, leaps over a precipice nine hundred 
and fifty feet in height. Its little tribute of waters is nearly 
all lost in spray, and but a small portion reaches the river. 
We know of no better description of these scenes than from 
some sketches which have been heretofore published. We 
first quote from Lanman's " Alleghany Mountains :" — 

^' My first expedition, on arriving at Asheville, was to a 
gorge in the Blue Ridge, called the Hickory-Nut Gap. How 
it came by that name I cannot imagine, since the forests in 
this particular region, so far as I could ascertain, are almost 
entirely destitute of the hickory tree. It is true that, for four 
miles, the gorge is watered by a brook called after the hickory- 
nut, but I take it that this name is a borrowed one. The 
entire length of the Gap is about nine miles, and the last five 
miles -are watered 'by the Rocky Broad River. The upper part 
of this stream runs between the Blue Ridge proper and a spur 
of the Blue Ridge ; and, at the point where it forces a pas- 
sage through the spur, its bed is exceedingly rocky; and, on 
either hand, until it reaches the middle country of the State, 
it is protected by a series of mountain bluffs. That portion of 




Zai Fubus^uirj J tulan. ' 



HICKORT NUT FALJLSo 

Kught ofunuztcTTicpteoLfcull 350fe^t heigTvt ofpr&eipueSOOft. 
Th&streajn. zn.vu foreground. uSroadJUytr. 



CHAPTER IV. 29 

the gorge which might be called the gateway, is at the eastern 
extremity. From any point of view, this particular spot is 
remarkably imposing; the Gap being not more than half a 
mile wide, though appearing to narrow down to a few hundred 
yards. The highest bluff is on the south side, and though 
rising to the height of full twenty-live hundred feet [about 
fifteen hundred really : Mr. L. was mistaken], it is nearly per- 
pendicular ; and midway up its front stands an isolated rock, 
looming against the sky, which is of a circular form, and re- 
sembles the principal turret of a stupendous castle. The en- 
tire mountain is composed of granite, and a large proportion of 
the bluff in question positively hangs over the abyss beneath, 
and is as smooth as it could possibly be made by the rains of 
uncounted centuries. Over one portion of this superb cliff, 
falling far down into some undiscovered, and apparently unat- 
tainable pool, is a stream of water, which seems to be the 
offspring of the clouds ; and in a neighboring brook, near the 
base of this precipice, are three shooting waterfalls, at the foot 
of which, formed gut of solid stone, are three boles, which are 
about ten feet in diameter, and measure from forty to fifty feet 
in depth. But, leaving these remarkable features out of the 
question, the mountain scenery in this vicinity is as beautiful 
and fantastic as any I have witnessed among the Allegha- 
nies. At a farm-house, near the Gap, where I spent the 
night, I met an English gentleman and tourist, and he in- 
formed me that, though he had crossed the Alps in a number 
of places, yet he had never seen any mountain scenery which 
he thought as beautiful as that of the Hickory-Nut Gap. My 
best view of the gorge was from the eastward, and just as the 
sun, with a magnificent retinue of clouds, was sinking directly 
in the hollow of the hills ; and, as I gazed upon the prospect, 
it seemed to me, as was in reality the case, that I stood at the 
very threshold of an almost boundless wilderness of moun- 
tains.'^ 

3^ 



30 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

We extract the following from the pen of the present junior 
editor of the JV. G. Standard: "The scenery along the Hick- 
ory-Nut Grap is among the finest in the world. As you ap- 
proach the Gap from the south the mountains seem to hem 
you in, looming up before you like an impassable barrier. On 
a nearer approach, the Gap is discovered, — a narrow defile 
between lofty peaks. 

'' Bald Mountain, so called from its rocky brow, rises on 
the right, presenting to you a front of almost solid rock, rising 
perpendicularly to the height of several hundred feet. Just 
beyond it is ^ The Pinnacle,' the highest peak for many miles 
around. The view from its summit is grand and extensive. 
On the left rise various peaks, known by their appropriate 
names. 

"Just one mile from the road, to the left (leaving it at the 
house of Mr. Washington Harris, at the foot of the mountain), 
are ' The Pools.' A small stream flows down a deep ravine, 
and at length, with a perpendicular fall of- ten or twelve feet, 
plunges into a natural well, or pool, formed in the solid rock. 
This pool is perfectly round, perhaps fifteen feet in diameter, 
and about thirty in depth. The stream flows on for a few 
steps farther, and again falls into another pool, similar to the 
first, and about the same size and depth. A little farther on 
is the third pool, about twenty feet in diameter, and of un- 
known depth. The water in this has a rotary motion, but 
there seems to be no subterraneous outlet, as the volume of 
water below is equal to that above. When a stick, or branch 
of a tree is thrown into it, it will disappear for some time, and 
again rise on the upper side of the pool, then disappear again, 
as before, and so continue appearing and disappearing. The 
whole surface around the Pools is a solid and smooth rock.'' 

* * * ^ ^; * 

" Tryon Mountain, about twenty-three miles south of this 
place, or rather southw^est, has a peculiar bench of land about 



CIlAPiEll IV. 31 



half way up, it being a level of considerable size, on whicb are 
some farms, and many fine orchards j and, what is very curious, 
there is never any frost there. Peaches flourish finely, and 
are a certain crop. There have been several theories advanced 
to account for this freedom from frost, but the proper one is 
probably yet unknown." 

This peculiarity, as to frost, is known of several places in the 
West. There is a cove, near Linville Falls, where the leaves 
do not fall from the trees until everywhere else around has the 
appearance of winter. It must be owing to some construction 
of the face of the country around, which creates a constant 
current of air overhead. The country about Linville is much 
like that at Hickory-Nut; both furnish much interesting study 
for the geologist. There is visible in the rock cliffs on both 
sides of the traveller, a streak of red, which looks as if they 
once fitted together, but some great convulsion had torn them 
apart. The same streak of red is found in the bluffs of Lin- 
ville Mount, facing the valley of the North Fork. 

A tourist in the mountains, in 1858, says of this route :— 
" This whole region has been characterized as ' The Moun- 
tains,' and well does it deserve the appellation. Even before 
crossing the Catawba, there are various points, from which the 
eye can catch a glimpse of solitary peaks, far away to the west, 
rising above the horizon. But it is only when the traveller 
has passed Lincolnton or Shelby, on the lower routes, and is 
approaching Rutherford ton, that the veritable ' Blue Eidge,' 
so long the wonder of the lowland school-boy, begins to appear. 
The face of the country becomes more rolling, and deep dells 
lie along the sides of the road, shaded with the evergreen 
laurel, while the creeks and rivers all seem to be in a wonderful 
hurry, as if they had important business to transact away some- 
where below. Rutherfordton, though its location indicates 
that level ground is a rarity thereabouts, can scarcely claim to 
be a mountain village. It is true, that it has its mountains in 



32 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

a few miles, and to the inexperienced eye, they look grand and 
magnificent, but they are only the sentinels, stationed at a dis- 
tance, a kind of promise on a lower scale, of something more 
magnificent beyond. But a few miles beyond Eutherfordton, 
the grand prospect bursts upon the vision. The Pinnacle, 
Sugar-Loaf, Chimney-Rock, Tryon Mountain, with innumer- 
able other peaks, loom up over the horizon, and stretch from 
the north to the west and south, as far as the eye can reach. 
It is but for a moment, for the scene vanishes behind the in- 
tervening forests. The approach to them is almost imper- 
ceptible. Striking the Main Broad River, the road proceeds 
up its banks, and as the hills cluster in more closely, they 
completely exclude a view of the mountains. But the scenery 
near at hand amply compensates for the loss. The road is a 
kind of terrace, resembling a shelf on the mountain side; 
dark woods and steep rocks overhanging it on one side, and on 
the other, the river rushing and tumbling and roaring through 
and over ledges ef rock, in its frantic haste. Occasionally,lt 
a sudden bend of the stream, the sweetest little dells in the 
world, canopied by the 'spruce and hemlock, where the sun- 
shine never intrudes, afford welcome places to rest. And, to 
finish the accommodation, a spring of cold water gushes from 
the mountain side, and sends its laughing waters merrily in 
the stream below. For some miles this kind of scenery con- 
tinues, until at last the hills recede a little, leaving a kind of 
basin of some hundreds of acres, at the confluence of several 
little streams. This is Harris's, or Chimney-Rock House, a 
place of considerable resort, in consequence of several very 
interesting spots in the vicinity. To the southwest, about a 
mile distant, is Chimney-Rock Mountain, so called from a huge 
rock standing out from its side, in the form of a chimney. 
About the same distance southward, are the Cascades, or 
Whirlpools,^ on a small stream coming down a deep mountain 
gorge. This stream runs a considerable distance in a channel 




Mil ■r;r!;i^][_j[,-;j5 



FALILSo 



CHAPTER IV. " 33 

of solid rock^ and at three several places it leaps over ledges 
of rock about ten feet bigli, and plunges into circular pools, 
wliich incessantly whirl and foam under the action of the 
falling water. A slender pole of twenty-five feet in length 
may be thrust into them without finding the bottom. It will, 
however, come back with a rebound that is dangerous to the 
amateur explorer who heedlessly stands in its line of direction. 
No successful attempt has been made to sound their depth. 
Once, we are told, a rope with a stone tied to it, was lowered 
into them, but gradually ceased to descend at thirty-seven feet 
depth. The conclusion was, that the rope buoyed up the stone 
at that point. One is tempted to ask the difficult questions, 
whether these pools have been worn out by the falling water ? 
and how long would it take a petty stream to make an excava- 
tion of that depth in solid granite ? Who will answer ? 

'' To the west, near by, nses the Sugar-Loaf Mountain, a 
conical peak, very rocky and precipitous. A little further 
northward rises the Pinnacle, said to be the highest point in 
that range. The view from its summit is exceedingly grand. 
Mountains upon mountains rise up in a long, interminable, 
succession, on three sides. Towards the northwest, Mitchell's 
Peak, now invested with a new and sorrowful interest, is to be 
seen, standing in solemn grandeur, the monarch of the giant 
brotherhood. In an opposite direction, the eye stretches over 
a vast panorama of woodlands, and fields, and houses, until 
heaven and earth seem to come together, and shut out the 
magic scene. A mile or two westward from this point, there 
is another novel and interesting phenomenon. It is a little 
stream rushing from the very brow of the mountain, down a 
precipitous rock, some hundred and fifty or two hundred feet. 
At the distance of a mile it resembles a line of silver, or more 
properly, a snow-white ribbon, gently swaying and puffing in 
a light breath of air.'' 

An editorial article in the Asheville Spectator^ of May, 



34 MOUNTAIN fcCENERY. 

1858, says : "The route from Asheville to Charlotte is one of 
the most beautiful I have ever been on. But, on my trip this 
time, it was rendered somewhat disagreeable' by the frequent 
showers of rain. The fame of the beauty and sublimity of the 
scenery is extensive, and the realization does not belie the 
report. The tall, grim old rocks, which lift their bald heads 
far, far towards the heavens, in all the sublimity of solemn 
grandeur, seem to remind us that, as earth itself, in them, is 
ever trying to reach that arcanum of all things good and pure, 
so we, who are of earth, should ever, with purity of intent, 
point our hopes and desires towards the same great source of 
all enduring blessings. 

"The stage line of Messrs. Baxter & Adams, which travels 
in full view of the whole of this panorama of mountain scenery, 
— said, by those who know, to be unsurpassed by any in the 
Old World, — is as easy, cheap, and certainly the most speedy 
means of conveyance which the traveller can obtain at Char- 
lotte.'' 

We close this chapter with an article from the same paper, 
in which the editor draws a comparison between the two Gaps 
of which we have been speaking : — 

" I did not reach the foot of the mountains until dark, there- 
fore I can say nothing of my present experience as to the 
mountain scenery, but, having passed over the Swannanoa Gap 
before, I well remember its loveliness and sublimity. It has 
been a disputed point with me which has the finest scenery, 
the Hickory-Nut, or the Swannanoa Gap. The last I go over 
always seems to attract me most. Yet a distinction may be 
drawn. The Swannanoa Gap, and its attendant scenery, is all 
loveliness and beauty. There is a soft, sweet delicacy about 
it, which reminds one of the goodness, mercy, and love of the 
Creator, and makes one feel that he is drawing near to the 
throne where all is peace, happiness, and supernal loveliness. 
As one gazes from the mountain height upon the green fields 



CIIArTER IV. ' 35 

of the Catawba valley, ricli in the soft delicacy of budding 
nature, and sees, too, around him, not barren rocks, but the tall 
oaks, raising their lofty heads, tinged a yellowish-green with 
the incipient buds of spring, while the gentle breeze wafts to 
his gratified senses the sweet perfume of the laurel, the ivy, 
and the multitudes of other mountain flowers, and treads under 
his feet a soil as fertile, even in its alpine height, as much of 
the lowlands which are stretched before his vision in the far- 
reaching distance, a feeling which seems to partake of other 
than the earthly, that breathes of the celestial, steals over his 
senses, unconscious of aught but the panorama of loveliness 
before him ; there rests over the whole mental and physical 
system a delicious repose and tranquillity unknown but to those 
who highly appreciate the beautiful in art and in nature. Such 
is the scenery of the Swannanoa Gap. 

^' On the other hand, when we view the grand, towering, bare 
rocks of the Hickory-Nut Grap, displayed in all the majesty 
and greatness of Jehovah, one feels his insignificance, and 
trembles with awe at the typification of the grandeur and ter- 
ror which is thrown around the ideal we have of the Creator 
in his wrath. He has no true appreciation of the grand and 
the sublime who will not, as he looks on those great high rocks, 
feel the intensity of his insignificance, and shrink within him- 
self, gazing upon these marvellous works of sublime and ter- 
rible power, as displaying the supreme majesty of the All-wise, 
All-powerful Creator. Here the savage himself would pause, 
wonder, fear, and tremble ; and not even the vilest of sinners, 
in his wild profanity and reckless infidelity, can pass such a 
scene, and not feel for a moment a dread of that awful un- 
known future. When in such a scene as this, I like to pause 
and lose myself in thought, not a word uttered, not a sound to 
be heard, except the wild dashing of the turbulent water of 
the crystal streams, which seem, even in their boisterousness, 
to sing a song of repose in the soft cadences of nature's own 



36 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

music. To be in such a place^ to witness sucli a scene, is worth 
a lifetime of toil and care. 

^^ But, to leave the dreamland in which I have been dwell- 
ing, it comes, then, to this : Lovers of the beautiful, combined 
with softly delicate sublimity, will find their tastes most grati- 
fied in a home on the Upper Catawba, and a trip through the 
Swannanoa Glap. Others, however, who prefer the sternly 
grand, will find themselves most pleased by a view of the 
Hickory-Nut Gap, the falls, and their surroundings. I would, 
however, advise all tourists to visit both, and decide for them- 
selves." 

The cost of these two routes is about the same. The only 
difi"erence being the railroad fare from Salisbury to Charlotte. 
On the Swannanoa route, the traveller will have the cars to 
Newton or beyond, which enables him, by resting a night in 
Morganton, to go through to Asheville in daylight. 

Fare from Charlotte to Asheville, $10. Meals, $2 50. 
Time about 36 hours. 

Fare from Salisbury to Asheville about 18 to $10. Meals 
and lodging about $2 50. Time on the way 36 hours, but 
does not travel at night. 



CHAPTER V. 

THE ROUTE PROM SOUTH CAROLINA — THE SALUDA GAP AND 
OTHER ROADS — PLAT ROCK AND C^SAR's HEAD — HENDER- 
SONVILLE. 

Perhaps the most travelled of all routes which converge at 
Asheville, is that from South Carolina via Greenville, Saluda 
Gap, Flat Rock, and Henderson ville. This road cannot be 



CHAPTER V. 37 

said to be very remarkable for its romantic scenery. Its chief 
attractions are the displays of artificial taste which adorn the 
summer residences of many wealthy South Carolinians. The 
region around Flat Rock is particularly noted for this. Farm 
joins farm in rapid succession ; and, looking over a vast array 
of artificial shrubbery, intermingled with a natural growth of 
oaks, the eye rests upon the handsome residence of some 
wealthy planter or retired merchant. Through them much 
money has been brought into the country, and these settle- 
ments have been of much benefit to the West generally. 
There is a hotel in the midst of this section of country, called 
the Flat Rock House. It has the reputation of being well 
kept. 

This route, via Saluda Grap, is perhaps the tamest by which 
one can approach Asheville. There is nothing of more than 
usual grandeur in the mountains, and the only peculiarly 
striking scenery is displayed in the Flat Rock section. It is, 
nevertheless, perhaps the most comfortable by which one can 
approach Asheville. The staging is only sixty miles. Grreen- 
ville, S. C, is a very pleasant place, and has several excellent 
hotels. It may be said to be a pretty place, as most South 
Carolina towns are. The Furman University, a large and 
flourishing institution under the control of the Baptist de- 
nomination, is located there. There are a number of fine 
private residences in and about the town. It is the terminus 
of a railroad from Columbia, and the starting-point of a num- 
ber of stage lines. Chick Springs, a place of some resort, is 
about twelve miles northeast of Greenville. The pleasant little 
town of Spartanburg, so celebrated for the number of her 
literary institutions and refinement of her citizens, that some 
have appHed to her the name of '^Athens of Carolina,'' is 
situated about thirty miles in a northeastward direction. 
Williamston Springs, a well-fitted-up place, .and of much 
resort, is on the railroad, some miles below Greenville. 

4 



88 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

There is another road to Ashevilte, other than that through 
Saluda Gap; which, too, in the beauty of its scenery and 
pleasantness, is almost equal to any. It is that via Jones's 
Gap, taking Caesar's Head in the route. It leads through a 
fertile and interesting region, whose lovely valleys are ever, 
in their season, to be found teeming with the rich product of 
the farmer's labor, and whose green-clad mountains and harsh, 
frowning crags, as they gather round the way, all contribute 
to make a scene of varied beauty and interest. The chief 
feature of this route, however, is the rock and mountain called 
Caesar's Head. It is a lofty mountain, with one side a perpen- 
dicular precipice of great height. From this rock, an exten- 
sive view of Greenville and Anderson Districts, in South 
Carolina is had. There is a hotel located a few yards back 
from the precipice, whose eating and sleeping arrangements 
are said to be unsurpassed. It maybe easily inferred, that 
not the least attraction of that place is the well-selected and 
excellently prepared eatables of our host of the Caesar's Head 
Hotel. A new turnpike connects this place with the Sulphur 
Springs, near Asheville ; or, should the tourist prefer, he may 
reach the stage road at or near Hendersonville. There is no 
regular public conveyance along this route. The country 
passed through in going to Asheville, is the valley of the 
Upper French Broad, and is by no means of an uninteresting 
character. 

The traveller leaves to the left, at Caesar's Head, or rather, 
in passing from that place to Asheville, a section which, though 
but poorly developed, is known to be one of the richest in 
mineral and agricultural wealth anywhere in our country. We 
refer to what is commonly called Cashier's Valley, — whence 
its name, we know not. Some few South Carolinians have 
settled here, and made improvements, wherein to spend the 
summer. It is probably with more emphasis a valley, than 
any place so called, of which we know. It is hemmed in on 



CHAPTER V. 39 

three sides by tall mountains, and is watered by the upper 
waters of the French Broad River. On the edge of this valley 
is a mountain, which is pronounced by those who have seen 
it, to be a great curiosity of nature. Seemingly, it juts forth 
from the Blue Ridge, and rises to the height of 1500 feet, 
with a very decided inclination forward at the top. It is called 
Whiteside Mountain, — the rock of which it is composed being 
of a whitish cast. In this rock is a cave, descended to from 
the top by a slight winding path, the looks of which are enough 
to make one's blood chill. This cave is 1200 feet above the 
valley, in the side of a steep rock, and yet there is to be found 
in it a trunk of a tree, as large as a man's body. Will some 
geologist tell the world whence it came. It is related that a 
man once tied two umbrellas to his dog, and dropped him 
off this precipice, and the dog landed safe and sound at 
the bottom. He, however, did not thank his owner for the 
ride, as, it is said, he never could be induced to go near him 
afterwards. This valley and mountain are most easily reached 
from South Carolina, but can be, and often is, visited from 
Franklin, in Macon County, N. C. 

After crossing the Saluda Gap, the traveller finds at its foot 
an excellent stopping-place, with Mr. Davis. Leaving there, 
he crosses Green River, and immediately begins to ascend the 
Butt Mountain Gap of the Blue Ridge. The Saluda Moun- 
tains, merely a spur of the Blue Ridge, are the boundary be- 
tween North and South Carolina. The ascent of the mountain 
made, the traveller finds himself on the same table-land which 
we have before mentioned at the Swannanoa Gap. A ride of 
some miles, through the beautiful Flat Rock country, finds the 
traveller at Hendersonville. Here, too, will be found a very 
good hotel. In fact, the number of good stopping houses upon 
this route has been often remarked by travellers. Between 
Hendersonville and Asheville there are two, — Mrs. Patton's, 
seven miles from the former place, a quiet, pleasant spot to 



40 MOUMTAIN SCENERY. 

stay, and one where none of the necessaries or luxuries of life 
are lacking; Mr. Eoberts's, the Half-way House, just ten 
miles from each place, has many very excellent qualities, and 
nowhere will the traveller find himself better attended to ; 
everything necessary to his comfort is at hand, and at his 
service. This road goes into the Swannanoa. road one mile 
from Asheville. 

There are other routes from South Carolina ; most of them 
are but tributaries, however, to the main leading ones we have 
mentioned; as, for instance, a road from Spartanburg con- 
nects with the Hickory-Nut Glap road. The main point, how- 
ever, through which the table-land of the Blue Ridge is 
reached from South Carolina, is Greenville and the Saluda 
Gap ; in fact, it is the only route of a regular public convey- 
ance. Even to North Carolinians, this route is convenient and 
pleasant, as it passes through the city of Columbia, — perhaps 
the most beautifully adorned of any in our Union. The garden 
of Mrs. Hampton is, alone, said to be worth a visit. 



CHAPTER VI.* 

THE ROUTE VIA WILKESBOROUGH. 

There is another route by which all the beauties of the 
Swannanoa Gap may be viewed, and even still more lovely 
scenes added to them. We allude to the road via the valley 

* The author must acknowledge his indebtedness, for nearly all the 
information, and a great portion of this chapter, to a talented young 
lawyer of Greensborough, whose notes upon the Mountains, over 
the signature of "Harry Hall," appeared in the Patriot, of that 
town, in July, 1858. 



CHAPTER VI. 41 

of tlie Yadkin, Wilkesborougli, and Lenoir, to Morganton, there 
connecting with the Swannanoa Gap road. This route, there- 
fore, may be said to be merely a tributary to that. As there 
is no public conveyance much of the way, it can only be viewed 
in one's own carriage. The proper beginning of this road 
would be at the town of Greensborough. The traveller can, 
however, as easily leave the railroad at High Point, as we pro- 
pose to start the journey at Salem. At that ancient town, 
then, the traveller takes up his line of march, having in view, 
as a point of destination, the town of Wilkesborough. On the 
right hand will occasionally be seen portions of the Saura Town 
range of mountains, and the grand peak of the Pilot, standing- 
solitary and alone ; now, as in olden time, a guide to the wan- 
derer. 

One great object of attraction upon this route is the number 
of fertile farms and beautiful private residences. The valley 
of the Yadkin is known far and wide for its loveliness, and the 
wealth and hospitality of its inhabitants. One of the first of 
these upon ©ur route, and by far not the least in the points for 
which we have said the valley is famed, is the residence of 
Nicholas Williams, Esq. Of it, the writer, from whom we 
quote, says : — 

Approaching the house, '' the scene before him reminded 
the writer of some of those splendid old baronial possessions in 
England, which have been so graphically described by Sir 
Yf alter Scott in his brilliant stories of the olden time. The 
forest of oak, pine, cedar, and chestnut, formed a complete 
circle, leaving an open space of about ten acres, in the midst 
of which is the mansion, a neat and antiquated-looking build- 
ing, which was commenced before the Revolution, and finished 
after its close, almost entirely hid from view by wide-branched 
oaks, which < fling their gnarled arms over a thick carpet of 
the most delicious greensward.^ On your left, as you approach 
the mansion from the large gate of the outside inclosure, is a 

4* 



42 MOUNTAIN SCENERY, 

meadow of tall, waving grass ; and, on your right, is a lovely 
flower-garden, with 'shrubbery which Shenstone might have 
envied,' environed by a beautiful juniper hedge. No one, who 
has ever read Milton's 'Paradise Lost,' can look upon this 
beautifully arranged garden without being reminded of the 
charming garden of Eden, which his strong imagination so 
richly bodied forth in that immortal poem. 

" In the cool of the evening, the writer strolled out into the 
flower-garden, and, passing through it, fell into a walk which 
led him to the family grave-yard, a neat and sequestered spot, 
shaded by broad-headed and branching oaks. There he saw 
the graves of several of the Williams family, and, among them, 
two which peculiarly interested him. The one is the grave of 
Col. Joseph Williams, the father of our host, who distinguished 
himself as a brave officer in the Revolution, and was noted, 
at all times, for his activity, enterprise, patriotism, and devo- 
tion to correct and liberal principles; and the other, that of 
the Hon. Lewis Williams, as sterling a patriot, and as pure 
and wise a statesman as ever graced the halls of t)ur national 
legislature. He entered public life in 1813, as member of the 
House of Commons, and was re-elected in 1814. In 1815 he 
was elected a member of Congress, and served continuously 
until 1842 ; a long career in one place proves the sincerity of 
his character and the confidence of his constituents. His 
life, compiled from his papers, woul'd form a most valuable 
addition to our history. He was much respected in Congress 
for his sound judgment, inflexible integrity, and unwavering- 
consistency, and received, by universal consent, the title of 
' The Father of the House.' * * * 

" None could desire a lovelier place than that for his long 
death-sleep. It is in sight of the old homestead, and lies 
between that handsome garden, where the kinsman and the 
stranger alike resort, and the noble Yadkin, whose silvery 



CHAi'TKii vr. 43 

waters, rolling down from the blue liills of Carolina, make 
melody over the graves of the departed/' 

The traveller crosses the Yadkin at what is called the Shal- 
low Ford. Here he leaves the river, and enters upon the hill 
country proper; in fact, small spurs of mountains. All along 
the road, occasional glimpses are to be had of the Pilot Knob. 
The traveller at length reaches Wilkesborough. Wilkesborough 
is situated in an elevated place, and commands a fine view of 
the mountains beyond. " It was built before the achievement 
of American Independence, and named in honor of a distin- 
guished English statesman, John Wilkes. Nature has done 
more for it than the inhabitants. To the southwest lie the 
Brushy Mountains, the highest peak of which is called Poor's 
Knob.'' On the other side the Yadkin pursues its turbulent 
course. Near this place is the farm whereon Daniel Boone 
once resided ; and there are still to be heard in that region 
reminiscences of a pleasant nature concerning him. 

From Wilkesborough the road turns southwest into Caldwell 
County, and passes through a section of that country said to 
be very appropriately named *' The Happy Valley." The writer 
we quote says of it : " The surrounding mountains, which rise 
only into beauty, and not into grandeur, form an almost mathe- 
matically perfect ellipsis. The length of the valley is about 
five miles, and the average width not far from three. Within 
it are five highly intelligent families, living on as many rich 
and handsomely improved farms. Everything which can en- 
rich and delight has been lavished here in bounteous profu- 
sion. Here are beautiful lowlands on each side of the river, 
and, towards the encircling mountains, are gently sloping hill- 
sides, from which persons can descry the Grandfather in Wa- 
tauga, the Hawk's Bill and Table-Bock in Burke, and Mount 
Mitchell, the loftiest peak of the Black Mountains. Here are 
green meadows and wide grazing pastures. Here are oaks, 
cedars, pines, the spruce, the silver, the white, and the black 



44 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

walnuts, poplars, locusts, chestnuts, hollies, and the white and 
pink-blossomed laurels. Here are pure, gushing springs, and 
noisy, babbling rills, which dash down from the mountain-tops, 
as if in haste to bury themselves in the vasty deep. Here are 
refreshing fogs, which rise not from malaria, but from pure 
streams, bearing on their downy pinions the glittering dew- 
drops and the rose of health, and not disease and death. Here 
are bracing breezes and cool nights, which strengthen man for 
the duties and toils of the long summer days. Here are fishes, 
sweet-singing birds, and deer; and here are groves not inferior 
to that of Daphne by Orentes. This is a sight well calculated 
to make one deeper in love with his native State; well calcu- 
lated to make him abandon any notions which he miiy enter- 
tain of leaving here for a home in the South or Northwest. If 
you have not been through the western part of your State, you 
know little or nothing of the fertility, magnificence, and natu- 
ral advantages, which are a few days' ride from you.^' 

In this valley is situated Fort Defiance, now merely a post- 
office, but once a stockade fort of some prominence. This 
whole section has been very long settled, and is, perhaps, filled 
with as intelligent a population as any portion of our State. 
Upon the site of the old fort is now a graveyard, in which lie 
the ashes of Gen. Wm. Lenoir, a man of distinction in his 
day. His old mansion, a relic of the days of '76, is now occu- 
pied by his son. A curiosity in this neighborhood is the 
Blowing Rock. It is a peculiarity, in nature, not uncommon 
in the mountains ; which, owing to the situation of the moun- 
tain ridges, the sudden depth of the valley, and, perhaps, other 
unknown reasons, causes an unceasing stream of air to come 
pouring up over the rock, which, of itself, is merely a ragged 
precipice. From this point, one can branch off into Watauga, 
and enjoy the rough, but beautiful Scenery of that wild, almost 
unknown county. 

Leaving the " Happy Valley," the traveller next halts in 



CHAPTER VI. 45 

the pleasant little town of Lenoir, named in honor of Gen. 
Wm. Lenoir. Nothing of great note will strike the eye in 
this place, unless it be the large building recently erected for 
a Female College ; from the observatory of which a fine view is 
obtained. The tourist from whom we have quoted, speaking 
of his sojournings about Lenoir, says : — 

^^ Five miles from Lenoir is Hibriten, as pretty a mountain 
as any that adorns the earth. From that place you have a fine 
view of it and other lofty mountains, and, especially, from the 
observatory of the College. Leaving there at ten o'clock, we 
reached the cool and gushing spring, which is nearly a quarter 
of a mile from the summit of Hibriten, about half-past eleven 
o'clock. At difi"erent points along the way up, we had magnifi- 
cent views of the surrounding country. Though the road, 
then, extended no farther than the spring ; yet, by this time 
it is finished to the top. Near that cool fount we hitched our 
horses, and refreshed ourselves with its delicious waters before 
we commenced the ascent to the top. Much money has been 
expended by the citizens there, to make that mountain a place 
inviting to all. And truly it is inviting and delightful. By 
the time one reaches the spring, he is sufficiently wearied to 
make him quaff" its water as if it were nectar, and the soft and 
balmy air that stirs in that high place I no pen can describe it ; 
it is sweeter than air which has swept across beds of roses. 
Close to the spring, and in full view of one coming up to it, 
there is a large board upon a tree, which reveals to the stranger 
that he can rest himself under the dark, deep shade of cedars, 
when he has attained the summit. 

"^CEDARS OF HIBRITEN.' 

" ' Stranger, spare each tree, 
Break not a single bough ; 
Their shade and beauty free, 
Claim thy protection now ; 



46 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

" ' A Heavenly Father's hand 
Has made this lovely spot, 
And beautified the land, — 
Thy hand should harm it not.' 

'' So pleased were we with the thought of reclining under 
the shade of those cedars, and with that happy parody 
on George P. Morris's sweet song, ^Woodman, Spare that 
Tree/ that thoughts of malicious mischief never entered our 
minds. Nor were we content to tarry longer there. After a 
short walk, up a very steep ascent, we found ourselves on the 
highest point of the summit, an elevation of at least 2200 feet 
above the level of the sea. Nor were we ever before so much 

"'Amazed, — confounded, — blinded with the blaze 
Of concentrated beauty.' 

''Every shade and hue and figure of beauty imaginable 
seemed to be presented to our eyes, in the splendid circle of 
mountains which lay around us. The bushes and smaller 
growth on the top have been cut out, leaving the larger and 
prettier trees, and the ground looks as clean as if it had been 
swept. On the side of the summit next to Lenoir are those 
comely and excellent cedars, which strangers have been so 
handsomely entreated not to break or harm. They remind 
the visitor of those lovely cedars of Lebanon, of which he has 
read in the Songs of Solomon. And beneath us, and all around, 
were beautiful and highly cultivated farms ; and then set in 
small mountains, which are dotted here and there with ^elds 
of oats, and wheat, and corn ; and there are others still in the 
rear of these, which rise gradually, in amphitheatre style, into 
lofty and grand mountains." 

This mountain can easily be visited in an afternoon ride 
from Lenoir. We should suppose that, considering its posi- 
tion, a sunset view from its top would be very fine. There 



CHAPTER vir. 



is a good hotel in the town of Lenoir, at which travellers 
can stop. It is a pleasant little place, and has many agreeable 
inhabitants. 

The road from Lenoir to Morganton passes over a compara- 
tively uninteresting country, though the mountain view be- 
comes better as you approach Morganton. As we said before, 
but little or none of this route can be travelled in a public con- 
veyance ; therefore, the tourist must take his own carriage and 
horses, which is, perhaps, the most agreeable, way of travelling 
through the mountains. Having now brought the reader to 
Morganton, we shall land him at the Walton House, where he 
may rest assured his wants will be well attended to, and tell 
what, as the morning dawns, he may there find to interest him. 

[What the cost of this route would be, we are not able to 
say; it would depend much upon the time spent upon the road. 
The greatest expense would be stopping in the towns. Coun- 
try stopping-places are very liberal in their charges. In fact, 
I would advise all persons who wish to travel economically to 
avoid the towns.] 



CHAPTER VI L 

MORGANTON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS THE PIEDMONT 

SPRINGS OF BURKE — TABLE ROCK AND THE HAWK's BILL. 

The first idea which will propose itself to the mind of the 
tourist, after rising from a refreshing sleep, will be to see what 
view can be obtained from the observatory on the top of the 
Walton House. And there, without doubt, is to be had the 
finest view anywhere in Morganton. We have sometimes 
thought, as we gazed off on the landscape which stretched 



48 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

itself far, far in the dim distance, just as the sun was leaving 
us in a glow of crimson splendor, and the twilight came hasten- 
ing on, that this place gave one of the best views of the moun- 
tains to be had in Western North Carolina. The town seems 
to be perfectly hemmed in with mountains, which keep them- 
selves at a respectful distance though, and are not by any 
means contracted in the curvings of their range. To the south 
and southeast, may be seen a range called the South Mountains, 
which run thence in a northwardly direction, and are lost in 
small spurs and ridges. In the far distant western prospect 
is seen the Blue Ridge and its spurs, a portion of the Black 
Mountain ; and, almost beneath us, the Linville Mountain ex- 
tends its snake-like arm far down until its course is stopped 
by the Catawba. Nearer still, rising in stern grandeur, may 
be seen the Table Rock and Hawk's Bill; between them and 
our station we view the swiftly flowing Catawba, sweeping on 
in its course through fertile fields, whose rich growth is ever 
a grateful sight to the eye ; while immediately at our feet are 
scattered around the residences of the hospitable citizens of 
Morganton. Every beholder will most surely say that it is a 
beautiful view. 

Morganton is a town of considerable age ; it was named in 
honor of Gren. Morgan, of the Revolution. It has no public 
buildings of note but a court-house. The Supreme Court of 
the State holds a summer session here. The place is healthy, — 
being about 1100 feet above the level of the sea, — but does 
not combine the great advantages of climate peculiar to the 
Blue Ridge table-land. The country is one of considerable 
wealth, and among its inhabitants will be found the descen- 
dants of men whose names stand high in the list of Carolina's 
patriot sons. Few men deserve more praise for their efi'orts 
in the Revolutionary struggle than Charles McDowell. Waight- 
still Avery is, too, a name not unknown in our Revolutionary 
history, though his services were more in the council hall than 



CHAPTER VII. 40 

in the field. The town itself, and an acquaintance with its 
inhabitants, will well repay the visitor for a few days spent 
there. 

In a ride of about fifteen miles, westward from Morganton, 
the Piedmont Springs are found. The waters of these springs 
are sulphur and chalybeate. Their somewhat out-of-the-way 
location has kept them from being much resorted to ; but the 
beauty of the scenery around, and the health-restoring proper- 
ties of the waters, certainly demand for them more attention 
at the hands of visitors, than they have heretofore received. 
Immediately in their neighborhood, the Hawk's Bill and Table 
Rock are situated. These sublime works of nature have not 
received the notice which their merits deserve. The Table 
Rock is a high, bleak rock, rising out of the top of a mountain 
to the height of over two hundred feet at the south end, — a 
gradual rise being the boundary on the north side. It can 
easily be ascended } and there is upon the top about an acre of 
rock, in a smooth surface. An excellent spring gushes out of 
a little hollow on one side of the rock, and thus enables the 
traveller to spend his time comfortably amid the lovely and 
grand scenes that burst upon his view. 

Immediately at the foot of the beholder runs the Linville 
River, fretting and groaning within its immovable walls. In 
front rise the towering rocks of the Linville Mount, shutting 
out from view the lovely farms of the North Cove. On one 
side is Morganton ; on the other, we see the cloudy cap of the 
Grandfather rising from out the Blue Ridge. Behind, far in 
the distance, and only to be seen of a clear day, the quaint- 
formed peak of the Pilot attracts our notice. Immediately at 
hand, and seemingly so near that we might step upon its top, 
is the peak of the Hawk's Bill. All around the mountains 
rise, some in the soft beauty of rich verdure, others in the 
grim grandeur of solid rock, without even a trace of vegeta- 
tion. But the eye, wherever it wanders, will turn again and 

5 



60 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

again to the awful gulf which yawns beneath us, and we shud- 
der at the thought of what would be our fate were our frail 
bodies cast into that almost fathomless abyss. There runs the 
Linville River ; and we see it, as the sun glances on its waters, 
apparently nought but a threadlike silvery stream ; and, 
almost pitying the troubles that its waters endure, we trace its 
course until it unites with the noble Catawba, and, with it, 
sweeps on to lose its purity amid the mud of the lowlands. 
Taking all things into consideration, especially just at sunset, 
there are probably few mountains the view from which excel 
that from Table-Rock. 

The Hawk's Bill is a bare rock, rising probably to a greater 
height than Table-Rock. The view from it is about the same 
as from that point, as they are, in fact, but a short distance 
from each other. It has been but seldom visited. The peak, 
from a number of points on the road from Morganton to Plea- 
sant G-ardens, bears a striking resemblance to the hooked-bill 
of a hawk. 

These two mountains rise out of the valley comparatively 
alone. They look like twin-sisters, or, as a tourist once ex- 
pressed it, " like two mighty sentinels guarding the peaceful 
stillness of the valley,'' that no intruding hand should break 
the calm repose of nature. Their formation, and that of the 
valley of the Linville, afford much fertile study for the geolo- 
gist. What great convulsion once rent them in twain, and 
caused the awful chasm in which the Linville pursues its 
tortuous course ? 

These points can, perhaps, be best visited from Piedmont 
Springs. Ample accommodations will be found at that place 
for many visitors ; and, as far as the scenery is concerned, no 
one will ever regret a visit to them. 



CHAPTER VIII. 61 



CHAPTER VII L 



LINVILLE FALLS. 



There is^ in what might be said to be the vicinity of Mor- 
ganton, a curiosity of nature, almost unnoticed, which, for its 
grand sublimity, and that of its surroundings, is, perhaps, 
equal to anything of the kind in our country. We allude to the 
Falls of the Linville River, not a great deal more than twenty- 
five miles from Morganton in a direct line, but more than thirty 
by an accessible route. The best route by which they can be 
reached is from Carson's, on the Catawba ; there taking a road 
to the little settlement of Childsville, from which place the 
Falls can be easily visited. The tourist, however, who has 
his own conveyance, and prefers so to do, can, with ease, go 
to the same place from Morganton; and from thence, after 
having visited the Falls, go to Carson's without returning to 
Morganton; and it is probable that such would be the best 
and most interesting route. The following, which has hereto- 
fore appeared before the public eye, will give an idea of the 
scenery and the manner of visiting the Falls a year or two 
ago :— 

^' There are numbers of natural curiosities throughout the 
South which are never seen or heard of except by some ad- 
venturous traveller, and known intimately only by the intrepid 
mountain hunter. Thus, these curiosities remain unnoted, 
while yearly thousands of our citizens go northwards in search 
of health or pleasure. Among such may be classed the Falls 
of the Linville River, in Burke County. AYe doubt not but 
numbers of persons in Burke County never heard of them. 
They are to be found in the northwest corner of that county, 



52 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

near to that famous tree upon which the four counties of Burke, 
Watauga, Yancey, and McDowell corner, and about nine 
miles from the Piedmont Springs. The facilities for getting 
to them are as yet about no facilities at all ; an idea may be 
formed from our experience : — 

"Leaving Childsville on the morning of Tuesday, in com- 
pany with Col. Childs, we rode within three miles of the Falls, 
and then leaving our buggy, we went on horseback to the house 
of Mr. David Franklin, one mile from the Falls. Mr. Frank- 
lin consented to become our guide, and, after a short rest, we 
moved on to the Falls. Having arrived within half a mile of 
them, we dismounted and proceeded on foot, being unable to 
ride on account of fallen trees. We soon reached the river, 
the din of the waterfall having for some time been roaring in 
our ears ; we then crossed it, to do so, being compelled to put 
certain portions of our person in a state of nature. Having 
crossed, we proceeded down the eastern bank, through a wild 
and irregular growth of ivy, laurel, and whortleberry bushes. 
It is rather singular that on the west bank of the Linville, the 
soil is rich and covered with a most luxuriant growth of trees, 
while on the east bank, just here, for some distance out, 
nothing of any worth grows. The river, where we crossed it, 
has as clear, smooth an appearance as any other mountain 
stream ; it soon becomes agitated by slight rapids, until sud- 
denly it is divided by a huge rock, and dashes over a fall of 
about twenty feet; it then boils and surges in a most terrific 
manner for about two hundred yards, the while falling three 
several times, twisting and turning in every shape that human 
imagination can fancy. 

" Following our guide, we seated ourself on the top of a rock, 
around the base of which the river rushes in its wild career. 
About forty feet below us, on one side, dashed the troubled 
waters of the Linville ; on the other, these same waters having 
forced themselves through a passage not more than ten feet 



CHAPTER VIII. 58 

wide, made their descent over the last and highest fall. Here 
the mist was rising; and the rays of the sun, as it shone 
through, caused the peculiar view which resembles so much 
the sulphurous flames, which Bunyan so well describes as 
arising from a certain dark abode, that it gives the cavern 
under the lower fall the name of the Devil's Hole. Our po- 
sition was a commanding one, but not such as a person with 
weak nerves should seek. As we gazed far down the course 
of the river, we could see the stream again assume its com- 
paratively placid appearance ; but now, instead of banks almost 
even with its bed, it was locked in by an impenetrable mass of 
chimney rocks, which continue for miles down its course, rising 
in the most majestic grandeur to a height of one, two, and 
three hundred feet, and in some places near to a thousand. 
At one point we are informed the rocks close over the river, 
and it is easy for a person to jump from one bank to the other. 

" The grand sublimity of the scenery which is hereabouts 
presented to the eye, cannot be surpassed by any in the world. 
Language fails to describe it, and the pencil of the artist can 
give but a faint conception of its beauty and magnificent 
grandeur. Here it is that man feels his insignificance, and 
trembling kneels with awe and fear. We have seen Niagara 
in all its artistic splendor, and we have seen what was called 
grand scenery, but never, never, have we seen anything to 
equal- the scenery of Linville Falls, nor do we ever expect to 
see the like again until we revisit them. 

" Ere long the pencil of the artist will trace the rarest 
beauties, and give them to the world's view. Ere long the 
spirit of enterprise will make good roads, and build a good 
house, at which visitors may stop. No place can present the 
same attractions as a watering-place that Linville can. Its 
beautiful scenery, that never has been fully explored ; its health- 
ful climate, the excellent water of the Rattlesnake Spring, the 
fertility of the soil, and last, but fir from least in the pleasure- 



54 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

seeker's eye, the large quantity of game which is to be found 
thereabouts. 

" Having spent the afternoon at Linville, we returned to 
Mr. Franklin's house, and there rested for the night. The 
next day we visited the Gingercake Rock. This rock is a 
curious formation, resting on a ridge between Hawk's Bill and I 
the Gingercake Mountain, very near to the latter. It is a ' 
high rock, conical in shape, between fifty and seventy feet in 
height, about six feet through at the base, and rising to a 
thickness of twenty-five or thirty feet. This rock is flat on 
top, and covered with gray moss. On one end of its top there 
is a rock about fifteen feet long and four or five feet wide, 
with a thickness of about four feet. This rock is, to all appear- 
ances, just about to fall. At least ten feet of it is projecting 
from the edge of the main rock, the whole presenting the 
appearance of having just been dropped in its place, and 
lodged for a little while, thus making one of the grandest 
sights that can exist in nature. Reascending the mountain, 
we walked over to the Chimney Rocks, and there we had pre- 
sented to us as beautiful a landscape view as can be found in 
Carolina, unless it be that from the Pilot Knob. The eye has 
a full, open scope from the Grandfather Mountain entirely 
around the Roan, and even beyond that. The valley of the 
Catawba is open to the view from its origin to its end, the 
whole of Turkey and North Coves, with their rich fields of 
waving corn. In the dim, dark distance, a lone mountain m 
rises to view, which, from its location, we suppose to be the f 
Pilot. Just as the sun fades beneath the horizon, it casts 
forth a clear, red light, and you see flashing in its blaze the 
windows of the houses of Morganton ; from the same source, 
a golden tinge is thrown upon every leaf, and everything is 
mellowed into soft loveliness in the accomplishment of nature's 
most splendid creation. Far, far beneath, hid amid a mass of 
shrubbery and rocks, the Linville finds its way to the Catawba. 



CHAPTER VIII. 55 

Turning to our guide, we asked : ' Does the Linville run there V 
He replied, ' Yes, and poor thing, it sees troublous times before 
it gets out of there too/ We have never seen anything which 
gave one so forcible an idea of man's littleness as this point. 
The Chimney Rocks of the mountain are about three hundred 
feet high ; from their base the mountain descends with fearful 
rapidity into the Linville River; how iiir, it is beyond our 
power to estimate, but it seems as if it was almost into the 
bowels of the earth. It seems as if one might fall 

" 'From morn till noon, from noon till dewy eve," 

and but then fathom its depth ! We looked, and turning, looked 
again. Grladly would we have spent hours upon that summit ; 
but nature changes not to suit man's wishes, and days must 
end on the mountain top as well as in the valley. AVe re- 
turned to Mr. Franklin's house, thankful for what we had 
seen, but wishing that we could spend weeks roaming among 
the beauties of that mountain country." 

Lanman, it seems, found this hidden spot, and, in his letters 
from the Alleghany Mountains, says of it : ''I come now to 
speak of Linville Falls, which are situated on the Linville 
River, a tributary of the beautiful Catawba. They are lite- 
rally embosomed among the mountains, and, long before seeing 
them, do you hear their musical roar. The scenery about them 
is as wild as it was a hundred years ago. Not even a pathway 
has been made to guide the tourist into the stupendous gorge 
where they reign supreme. At the point in question, the 
Linville is about one hundred and fifty feet broad ; and, though 
its waters have come down their parent mountains at a most 
furious speed, they here make a more desperate plunge than 
they ever dared to attempt before, when they find themselves 
in a deep pool, and suddenly hemmed in by a barrier of gray 
granite, which crosses the entire bed of the river. In their 
desperation, however, they finally work a passage through the 
solid rock, and, after filling another hollow with foanj, they 



56 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

make a desperate leap of at least one hundred feet, and find a 
resting-place in an immense pool, which one might easily 
imagine to be bottomless. And then, as if attracted by the 
astonishing feats performed by the waters, a number of lofty 
and exceedingly fantastic cliffs have gathered themselves to- 
gether in the immediate neighborhood, and are ever peering 
over each other's shoulders into the depths below. But, as the 
eye wanders from the surrounding cliffs, it falls upon an isolated 
column, several hundred feet high, around which are clustered, 
in the greatest profusion, the most beautiful of vines and 
flowers. This column occupies a conspicuous position a short 
distance below the Falls, and it were an easy matter to imagine 
it a monument erected by nature to celebrate her own creative 
power. 

''With a liberal hand, indeed, has she planted her forest 
trees in every imaginable place ; but, with a view of even sur- 
passing herself, she has fi.lled the gorge with a variety of 
caverns, which astonish the beholder, and almost cause him to 
dread an attack from a brotherhood of spirits. But how futile 
is my attempt to give an adequate idea of the Linville Falls, 
and their surrounding attractions ! When I attempted to 
sketch them, I threw away my pencil in despair; and I now 
feel that I should be doing my pen a kindness if I were to 
consume what I have written. I will give this paragraph to 
the world, however, trusting that those who may hereafter 
visit Linville Falls, will award to me a little credit for my willj 
if not for my deed.'' 

The Falls are about five miles from Childsville, from which 
place buggies can go within half a mile of the Falls, but it is 
even best to ride all the way upon horseback. However, be- 
fore the summer of 1859, a good carriage road will be made 
entirely to the bank of the river. Very fine views are to be 
obtained below the Falls from the high bluffs which rise for 
awhile on both sides, and at one point recede on the east side. 



CHAPTER YIII. 57 

The cliff, at this point, is called Bynum's Bluff, from the Hon. 
John Gray Bynum. The Hawk's Bill and Table-Rock stan(i 
immediately in front, and through the space between them is 
seen the far-distant prospect, while some twelve hundred feet, 
perpendicularly below, runs the Linville River. An idea may 
be formed of the height of these cliffs when it is known that 
Linville River runs nearly through the centre of a mountain 
of the same name, which is about five thousand feet above the 
level of the sea. I have never seen any place so well calcu- 
lated to give one a good idea of height and depth ; one seems 
to look into the bowels of the earth. Far, far down beneath 
us the eye traces by the rough rocks and want of trees the 
course of the Linville River, and a spy-glass enables one to 
see the troublous moving of its waters, but not a sound is 
heard to indicate the awful whirlpools which exist in the 
stream as it passes on in its rapid course. 

A route, which has in it much of beauty, would be up the 
North Cove; but, at this time, it can only be accomplished 
upon horses. There is a cave in the northern part of the val- 
ley until late almost unknown. The author, writing in the 
JV. C. Presbi/terian, said of this section and a visit to the 
cave : — 

" On Tuesday morning, I left the house to explore a cave 
in the limestone formation, that extends through the cave, 
which was the chief object of my visit there. Having pro- 
cured a guide, a little after 9 o'clock we entered the cave, 
and, after proceeding about a quarter of a mile, came to water. 
Previous to this, nothing of a very remarkable nature had 
been met with, but now began the wondrous splendors of that 
hidden world. Stooping through a low passage, in which the 
coldest of water ran rippling and singing a merry song, which 
was echoed back a thousand times from the dark dismal arched 
roof of the unmeasured space which stretched itself before, 
behind, and above us, we emerged into an immense passage. 



68 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

whose roof was far beyond the reach of the glare of our torches, 
except where the fantastic festoons of stalactites hang down 
within our touch. It looked like the arch of some grand old 
cathedral, yet it was too sublime, too perfect in all its beautiful 
proportions, to be anything of human, but a model which man 
might attempt to imitate. Passing along we would come to a 
huge figure, so horridly like the petrified skeleton of a human 
being, that as the fitful glimmering light cast a shade upon it, 
one would start back in horror. But a steadier shade exhibits 
it truly to our sight — nought but the working of nature, yet 
so perfect in its lineaments that it would take no great stretch 
of the imagination to think it a petrified remnant of the body 
of one of that departed race of giants, which fables tell us once 
strode over the land. Revelling in these horrid phantasies of 
the imagination, I touched it. How cold — icy cold ! my hand 
was numbed by the contact. But I missed my guide, and 
turning, I noticed him far above me, ascending a kind of na- 
tural stairs. I soon followed, and through a hole, hardly large 
enough for my body, entered a chamber, which, in the gor- 
geous splendor of its transparent drapery, the beauty and deli- 
cate look of its carpeting, surpassed any natural scene I ever 
witnessed. I thought to myself that could one but hear the 
strains of delicious music, he might well conclude that the 
land of the fairies was reached at last. It was not a large, 
gross cavern, with dark, gloomy stalactites, but these pendants 
were of a delicate lightness, and a most beautifully transparent 
yellowish hue, while the floor was covered with a formation 
which more resembled white moss petrified than anything else 
I can compare it to. My guide was pushing himself about 
into the various passages far from me, and not a sound reached 
me but the sweet murmur of the rippling water, which, as it 
came echoing along through the thousand harp-strings which 
hang from the roofing, answered my imagination amply for 
the music of the fairy elfs, while my torch giving but light 



# 



criAPTEii viir. 59 

enough to illumine the little room in which I sat, allowed my 
mind's eye to see hundreds of shapes dancing merrily in the 
thick darkness below. Had I but a picture of that scene, it 
should be an heirloom which I would pride in transmitting 
to an after generation, for I am convinced that never man 
stood on that spot before. Far beyond, half hanging on a 
ledge of rock, was my guide, looking more like a goblin from 
another world than a mortal creature of this, his face blackened 
with liglitwood smoke, and his clothes covered with mud, his 
light held high above him, and his head stretched out in a 
searching glance into the pitchy darkness of a cavern which 
lay before him. Soon satisfied that he could see about as far 
as the end of his nose, he seized a rock and struck a huge 
stalactite near him, bringing forth a deafening, crashing sound, 
which, echoing through a hundred passages, rang like a chime 
of bells, and thus dispelled a fancy of mine whereby I was 
endeavoring to make him out a giant spirit of the goblin world. 
Soon with a bound or two he reached me, and announced the 
not very astounding fact that it was farther than he had ever 
been before, and that no one had ever been farther than he. 
His next was, ^ Shall we go on ?' to which I replied, ' To 
the end.' And on we went, sometimes in water up to our 
knees, then beside the stream as it rippled on, now stooping 
or crawling through a narrow passage, again standing erect in 
a vast arched chamber, hung with the grandest of nature's 
stony tapestry. Every little while we would turn aside and 
examine some finely adorned chamber, whose splendid carvings 
would so dazzle the eye that the last seemed always the most 
beautiful. At length my guide cried, 'Look out for your 
light!' and well I heard it, for just then my foot slipped, and 
I was in a pool of water about four feet deep, and about as 
near ice as I ever wish to see that element. iVs I was in, I 
kept on, holding a ledge of rock so as not to go any. deeper, 
and soon the narrow passage opened into a good-sized cham- 



60 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

ber^ and the cave proper was at an end. There were several 
passages branching out, but all very small and difficult of access. 

" Then I sat down on a sort of artificial seat which extended 
round the pool, which seemed to constitute the head of the 
stream of water we had been tracing, and thought for the first 
time of the peril I was in. But yet it did not seem to me as 
if there was anything to fear. There we were, under the 
centre of the Humpback Peak of the Blue Bidge, with at 
least 2500 feet of rock and earth above us, in a place where 
the foot of man had never before trod, with nothing but our 
own intelligence to tell us the road back, and how much that 
may have been bewildered, we know not. At length we 
turned our steps backward, and, after travelling rapidly for 
some time, reached the mouth of the cave. I suppose the 
length we went to could not have been less than a mile. The 
water has a slight taste of lime, and runs with great rapidity, 
occasionally standing in pools of some depth. About three or 
four hundred yards from the mouth of the cave it turns di- 
rectly south, and sinks into the rock after a short distance. I 
found, far in the cave, a perfect grasshopper, petrified and 
covered with a crust of lime. We found bats, and traces of 
mice. So great was the change in the atmosphere, from the 
cave to open air, that all my clothing dried without the aid of 
fire. 

"The general formation of the country in which the cave 
lies is limestone, and there have been found some beautiful 
specimens of marble. The blue marble abounds; and there is 
a quarry of white, which, if worked, would bring to light 
some good specimens. I was pointed to some good specimens 
of novaclite or honestone. There are a number of beautiful 
falls upon the North Fork, and the general scenery is wild and 
grand. The. towering cliffs of the Linville and Blue Bidge, 
upon each side, add greatly to the scene. One fall is about 
fifty feet over a solid, perfectly even ledge of marble, polished 



CHAPTER IX. 61 

as smooth as glass by the action of the waters. The scenery 
is well worth a visit ; but I would not advise any one to attempt 
the cave, though I think it affords some food for scientific re- 
search/' 

The land above the Falls, upon the Linville River, is very 
fertile ; and in some spots upon its banks are the most beautiful 
valleys, of perfectly flat land, many hundred acres in extent. 
In one of these is found a species of white pine, noted for its 
great height without limbs. A scientific writer remarks, that 
in the Linville Cove is the only place, east of Oregon, that 
this pine is found. 

This work of nature can, probably, be visited with less ex- 
pense than any other noted spot in the West. It is impossible 
exactly to estimate the cost, as all depends on the number of 
the party, and the time spent there. The general charges are, 
however, about fifty cents for a man and horse one night. 



CHAPTER IX. 



THE VICINITY OF ASHEVILLE. 



We have heretofore spoken of Asheville, and the beauties 
of its immediate surroundings ; but, as it is the point which 
commands more of the attention of the Western tourist than 
perhaps any other, it may not be amiss to notice its vicinity 
more fully. Besides, too, there are in its vicinage points which 
are of great attraction and value to the West. 

Five miles west of Asheville are to be found the Deaver 
White Sulphur Springs. Buildings, amply sufficient to ac- 
commodate a large number of persons, are here; and the 
author has assurances that, during the next summer, the es- 

6 



62 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

tablishment will be kept in a style which a place of its value 
deserves. The waters of these Springs are of a valuable medi- 
cinal nature. There are two springs, — one, said to be blue 
sulphur, is not used; the other, white sulphur, has a high 
reputation. It is said to be equally efficacious with any of 
the Virginia Springs. We have at hand no correct analysis 
of the water. It partakes, however, in chief of sulphur, and a 
slight particle of iron, and, perhaps, a little magnesia. It is 
very cold and pleasant to the taste. It is said to have no supe- 
rior in cases of dyspepsia, and it certainly gives one a most 
excellent appetite. The water is in such quantity that it can 
be carried to the house for bathing when desired. There is, 
not far off, a chalybeate spring. 

The position of these Springs makes them a delightful sum- 
mer resort. There is always a pleasant, cool breeze stirring ', 
and the thermometer stands about three degrees lower than in 
Asheville. The view, from almost any point of the grounds, 
is fine, — presenting, in front, the Blue Ridge and its spurs ; 
in the west, Mount Pisgah and the Haywood Mountains. 
From a little mount, called after the editor of the Cliai-leston 
Courier — Mount Yeadon — a very fine view is to be had. From 
its summit, the town of Asheville, distant about seven miles, 
is to be seen. The view of the valley of Hommony Creek is 
extremely good, and enables one to form at a glance a correct 
idea of the supassing fertility of that region. It is about two 
and a half miles from the Springs to the top of this little 
mountain. The traveller who visits Asheville will most cer- 
tainly go to the Sulphur Springs ; and, when there, a jaunt to 
Mount Yeadon is indispensable to the full appreciation of the 
attractions of that section. 

About twenty miles from Asheville, fifteen from the Sul- 
phur Springs, is Mount Pisgah, a mountain of considerable 
height, but has not yet been much visited. The summit of 
this mountain is differently constructed from any surrounding 



CHAPTER IX. " 63 

it. Beyond it is a large valley, perfectly locked in by high 
mountains, except where a small stream finds its way out. This 
valley is a famous range for stock, and is called the Pink Beds. 
Besides its peculiar construction — somewhat resembling an 
oblong tray, which alone should make it a place of interest — 
it has an attraction still more inviting to some in the quantity 
of game found in its limits. Parties often leave Asheville and 
the Springs to spend a few days at this place. The little 
stream which flows through it, is said to be one of the best for 
mountain trout anywhere to be found. It is common for par- 
ties to catch five or six hundred. A pleasant and interesting 
trip for the tourist, sojourning at the Sulphur Springs, would 
be to this mountain and valley. 

There is, about nine miles north of Asheville, a place which, 
though not yet in a condition to receive boarding visitors, 
nevertheless presents a prospect of being in the future a place 
of great resort, as it is now a remarkable curiosity and of great 
value. We allude to a number of newly discovered springs, 
which have been called by some the Million Springs. This 
name is derived from the large number of springs which flow 
out of the ground in the space of about an acre. They are 
beautifully situated in a cove between two ranges of moun- 
tains. As this place affords no permanent accommodations for 
visitors, it does not now command much of our attention. 
Many from Asheville ride out and spend the day, returning to 
that place at night. A beautiful horseback-ride is from Ashe- 
ville to the Springs, thence to the top of the Bull Mount, 
through the stock-farm of Messrs. Woodfin, and on the moun- 
tain range back to Asheville. Many fine views of the valleys 
around are obtained in this way. The water at these Springs 
has never been fully analyzed, but they are known to be chiefly 
sulphur and chalybeate. 

A fine chalybeate spring is found in a ride of about two 



64 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

miles on tlie east of Ashevillcj in what is called Chunor's 
Cove. 

There are many fine drives about Asheville, but that up the 
Swannanoa is, perhaps, the best. It is much resorted to in 
the cool evenings of summer. Another route, called the Beaver 
Dam Road, passes by some fine farms, and is a good road. 
Three or four miles down the French Broad is not an unplea- 
sant ride, while it gives one a slight foretaste of the beauties 
beyond. 



\y 



CHAPTER X. 



THE BLACK MOUNTAINS. 



Now we shall speak of what may be called the greatest 
curiosity of the West, — the range called the Black Mountains. 
This range is peculiarly so called because of the dense growth 
of the balsam tree, with which it is covered, which gives it, 
when viewed in the distance, a black appearance. The fact, 
that these mountains have long been thought* to be the highest 
land east of the Rocky Mountains, the beautiful views to be 
obtained from them, the singularity of the growth, and other 
causes, have made them an object of much interest. There is 
now a very good horse-road to the top, and ladies and gentle- 
men can with ease ascend the peak. Mr. Jesse Stepp's, at the 



^ The author has, not long since, seen it stated, that Professor 
Buckley, of New York, and Professor Lecompte, of South Carolina, 
accompanied by Hon. T. L. Clingman, measured a peak of the 
Smoky Mountains, in Jackson County, and found it higher, by 
twenty-six feet, than the Pinnacle of the Black. It is in a wild, 
almost undiscovered country though. 



CHAPTER X. 65 

foot of the mountains, is the point at which all travellers stop 
before beginning the ascent. Four miles up the mountain, 
just in the edge of the balsam growth, is the Mountain House. 
This house was built by a wealthy gentleman of Charleston, 
William Patton, Esq., as much for his own accommodation, 
and with a view to attract attention to the mountain, as any 
other cause. And, in fact, to his efforts, much of the atten- 
tion of late drawn to the mountain scenery of Western North 
Carolina is due. This house is now kept as a public resort by 
Col. T. T. Patton, of Asheville, and will afford to the traveller 
as pleasant a stopping-place as he can find anywhere in the 
West. It is well in visiting the mountain, to spend at least 
one night there. Should the traveller choose, however, to stop 
at Mr. Stepp's, he will find that gentleman accommodating, 
and will do all in his power to make his visitors comfortable. 
All things connected with the mountain will, however, be 
much better arranged, and more for the comfort of visitors, 
during the next summer, than ever before. We would advise 
large parties going up to take saddles with them for use at the 
foot of the mountain. A few can be procured at Mr. Stepp's. 

To visit the mountains from Asheville, a party should leave 
early, and go to the Mountain House that night, and the next 
day ascend to the High Peak, and return to Mr. Stepp's, or 
the Mountain House. Or, if they wish to spend a night on 
the High Peak, there is a comfortable cabin there for the 
accommodation of such tourists as wish to view the sunset and 
sunrise. The following are some extracts from the journal of 
a party who visited the mountain in this way : — 

'' Among the many scenes of interest with which this sec- 
tion is filled, none have attracted so much attention this year 
as the Black Mountains. The burial there of the great and 
good, the honored and beloved, does, perhaps, as much to in- 
fluence the constant stream of visitors as the natural beauties 
of the mountains and their scenery. It is, in fact, almost 

6* 



66 .MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

astonishing to note the number who have ascended to the 
highest peak of these mountains during the past two months, 
many of whom we know have gone there, like pilgrims at the 
shrine of Mecca, to look upon the last resting-place of one who 
was, by them, respected as a teacher, beloved as a friend, and 
honored as a man of science. Few of his pupils but loved 
him, and none such can visit his grave and the scene of his 
last labors upon earth without a feeling of reverence and shed- 
ding a tear when thinking of his sudden and lonely death. 

" It was to visit this scene that a party left the town of 
Asheville, on Monday, the 16th of August last. Passing over 
the incidents by the way, I shall land our party at Mr. Stepp's, 
the foot of the mountain, late that day. This might be made 
a lovely spot, and were it so, would command more transient 
visitors, and no doubt a number of regular boarders. Nature, 
however, has done everything, art nothing. With the excep- 
tion of Mr. Stepp's little improvement, the woods, the creeks, 
and all nature stand in their primitive and lovely, but yet 
rough grandeur, seeming to invite, by their neglected condi- 
tion, the hand of skill and taste. It is a sweet little glen, the 
high mountains rising on all sides, save one, in grim solemnity, 
as if they stood guardians over the peaceful stillness which 
ever reigns in that vale of nature's loveliness. The only sound 
that comes to the ear, breaking the sweet stillness, is the music 
of the waters of the Upper Swannanoa, that ' loveliest river 
of our sunny southern clime,^ in whose ripplings, nature, — 
setting us an example, — sings her never-ending praises to the 
great Creator. 

^' On Tuesday morning we left Mr. Stepp's for the mountains, 
our party consisting of four ladies, five gentlemen, a lad of 
about ten years, two guides, and a servant. Having resolved 
tc spend the night upon Mitchell's High Peak, so as to witness 
the sunset and sunrise, we made the ascent very leisurely, 
stopping at various points to obtain views or for rest. About 



CHAPTER X. 67 

one o'clock the party reached Otey's Cabin, — so called from 
Bishop Otey, who was lately upon the mountain at the burial 
of the Rev. Dr. Mitchell ; there all dismounted, took a good long 
rest of more than two hours, and ate dinner. Here I might pause 
to analyze our company, and somewhat strange, though all were 
brought together by accidental circumstances, there was first 
a Presbyterian minister, six members of the same church, all 
the others born in that denomination and favoring its precepts. 
Our dinner consisted of cold chicken, bacon roasted on sharp- 
pointed sticks, corn bread and biscuit, and picJdes ; of course 
we had them, as there were ladies along ; sweet creatures, they 
must have something sour. Now, the thought has just struck 
me, perhaps that is the reason most of them like to get married. 
Our dinner was eaten, some standing, some lying, and others 
sitting, but none in silence, and was washed down with water 
from a spring, in which the mercury stands at 45°. Near the 
spring is a precipice, which might very appropriately be named 
the jumping-off place. Upon a clear day it aiFords a fine view 
of the country around the upper waters of the South Ton 
River. 

" After all had rested to their hearts' content, the horses and 
mules were brought into requisition, and ofi" we started. In 
about an hour we reached the top of Mitchell's Peak, as almost 
every one now knows, the highest point east of the Mississippi. 
After a short pause at the grave of him whose name the moun- 
tains perpetuate, and whose earnest efforts were ever directed 
to the revealing of their wonders, the party passed on a little 
down the east side of the peak to a cabin, where, in a room 
12 by 16 feet, we were to lodge for the night. A fire had 
been kindled, which was found by no means uncomfortable, 
as most of the party had been in a shower of rain. Forthwith 
one set to work drying boots and shoes, others bringing wood, 
some resting, and one industrious young lady took it upon 
herself to wash sundry tin pans, cups, spoons, &c., which were 



68 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

found in the cabin, tliej being there for the use of all travel- 
lers. Preparations for supper were made, the eatables ex- 
amined, and the universal question, ' What shall we have for 
supper ?' answered ', the tea-kettle, too, was put on the fire, and 
soon the water inside was singing a merry song. 

"The sun, which had been throughout the day hid behind 
a gloomy mass of clouds, at length burst the misty fetters 
which held its loveliness, and the fact was announced to the 
party that he was retiring from the scene of his almost fruit- 
less labors, amid a mass of glory and splendor, which well 
compensated for the want of his presence during the day. The 
whole eastern sky was a blaze of crimson, of richest, most 
delicate tint; not a sound disturbed the sublime stillness 
which reigned around that mountain top. The valleys all 
about were dark and gloomy with the fast deepening shades of 
night; here and there a milky cloud, like an emblem of purity, 
rested over some far distant cove ; all was twilight and dark- 
ness, save on that peak : the sun seemed to linger for it alone. 
Slowly that blood-red ball of fire began its descent ; it began to 
disappear faster and faster; it faded away suddenly with a 
rapid whirl ; like the sinking ship, it buried itself in the dark 
vista which bounded that sea of glory, and was gone. The 
thought struck me, how, like many a Christian's life, had been 
that day and that sunset. Full of troubles, care, and toil, in 
the morning, the noon, arid evening of life, yet when its night 
came, and the sun of mortal existence must set, as the friends 
gather round to witness its setting, how are they dazzled by 
the halo of glory which surrounds the Christian's couch, and 
awe-struck with the calm serenity which pervades that scene 
wherein he yields to earth that which came from it, to God 
that which He gave unto him. The sun of his mortal existence 
fades away forever, but the spiritual rises into another world 
as calmly and as gradually as it fades from our view, but leaves 



CHAPTER X. 69 

behind, in the memory of good deeds and the example of that 
dying hour, a long, lasting reflection of its own virtues. 

" The sun had passed from sight, but not so its beauties. 
Long, long we sat and watched the varying forms which the 
sprinkling of clouds assumed. Now we had a grand old castle. 
Suddenly its walls would topple down at the approach of a 
well-horned goat, who pushed towards it with fierce intent; 
then all was smooth and plain, seeming to be prepared for a 
race between two gigantic characters, who appeared on the 
scene at rapid strides, but suddenly they dissolved themselves 
into a monkey and a kangaroo. Soon up came the goat again, 
and seemed bent on butting a lion out of his path ; but the 
calculations of the whole company were disturbed by a sudden 
change of the whole into a view of a town, with houses, 
steeples, and trees. Thus, for an hour, dazzled with the lovely 
crimson-orange glow which overspread the sky, and cast its 
soft reflection upon the white clouds below us, amazed with 
the glorious splendor of the whole scene, we sat, allowing the 
imagination to play, conjuring up picturings amid the trans- 
mutations which rapidly and strangely occurred around the 
burial-place of day's departed light. Words cannot describe 
such a scene, or give an idea of the feelings it inspires. The 
mind is bewildered. Entranced in the enrapturing sensations 
which the vision of loveliness inspires, one seems to have left 
the several things of this lower earth to dwell with celestial 
purity, the paradisial loveliness of supernal creations; and, 
for a time, to lose a thought of aught but the scene around us. 
We are reminded, however, that we are beings of an earthly 
and perishable world ; but, by a proper respect for His precepts 
here below, we may attain to a never-ending world of loveli- 
ness, where every day and hour is a rising sun of glory and 
peace, and unalloyed bliss. 

^^ Early in the morning all rose and hastened to the top, to 
see the sun rise, but it was enveloped in cloud. The disap- 



70 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

pointraent was fully made up in the perfect ocean of clouds 
which covered the whole face of nature around and beneath 
us. Here and there stuck out a mountain top, like an island 
in a sea of foam. So purely, intensely white were these clouds, 
they were not snow-like, for they rivalled the eider down in 
softness and lovely delicacy. No comparison could do them 
justice. The sun at length rose above the clouds, and cast 
over them the faintest, most delicate tinge of crimson ; but 
the stern realities of every-day life had too much clipped the 
crimson freshness of its youth, to leave but a faint trace of the 
lovely purity which graced its infant moments, 

'' Breakfast, and then to horse again. After walking about 
half a mile, the ladies were all safely mounted, and we com- 
menced the descent in earnest. As an incident of our jour- 
ney, a fine buck crossed the path in a few feet of some of the 
party. The hunter of our company failed to get a shot at him, 
so he lost his deer, and we our venison. We proceeded rather 
slowly down the mountain^ and reached Mr. Stepp's about 12 
o'clock.'' 

Since the above was written, however, a company has been 
formed to build a turnpike from Asheville to the top of the 
mountain ; and visitors will, no doubt, have the pleasure here- 
after of viewing the scenery in a more comfortable way than 
on horseback. 

The place where the Rev. Dr. Mitchell lost his life is almost 
inaccessible, and but few persons have ever been there. It is 
distant from the summit about three miles, in a westerly direc- 
tion. Of the route to it, a writer who has been there, says : 
^^ It required no little nerve to undertake the descent to such 
a place, along such a wilderness way, especially at that time of 
day, and when we knew that a dreadful storm had passed over 
that side of the mountain only an hour or two before, and, 
even then, there appeared to be one between us and the Falls. 
Before we commenced descending, we were told that it is the 



CHAPTLR X. 71 

wDi'st wilderness, — there is no road or foot-patli there, and in 
some places not even so much as a bear-trail, — over which 
man ever trod; but we could have formed no conception of 
the wildness, terribleness, and exceeding great hardships of the 
descent beforehand, no, not the faintest. No tongue, no lan- 
guage, nothing, except bitter experience, can give the reader 
anything like the remotest idea of what we saw and suffered, 
on that never-to-be-forgotten evening." 

We would advise all readers to let the experience of others 
satisfy them, and not to attempt it. 

Perhaps the grandest, and, at the same time most terrible, 
scene to be witnessed on the mountain is a thunderstorm. We 
were upon its summit once at such a time; and, while we 
would gladly look upon its like again, the blood chills within 
us as we think of its awful splendor. Each rock around and 
beneath us, seemed a sheet of fire at each flash of lightning. 
Anon it would blaze forth its forked chain in some cloud far 
beneath us, then glancing upwards it next sent its shivering 
dart into some noble tree upon a distant peak. While it played 
its vivid fancies about us, darkness came on, and then its 
splendor was doubled. But the thunder ! we have often 
thought that if a thousand mountain tops were to come tum- 
bling, crashing down upon the valley, they could not give half 
an idea of the awful grating of that thunder upon the top of 
the Black Mountain. It seemed to strike into one's inmost 
depth, piercing every nerve and throbbing upon every sinew. 
One should be there in such a time to feel truly its awful sub- 
limity. But there are few who can witness this terrific pyro- 
techny of heaven with a steady nerve. We have never known 
any one, not even the hardy mountaineers, who did not shudder 
when recalling to mind such a scene. One thinks of Phaeton's 
fiery course, and has, somewhat like him, to risk his life to 
feel and see that sublimest blaze of glory and grandeur. 



72 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 



CHAPTER XL 



THE ROAN MOUNTAIN. 



There is another mountain in Yancey, which, from the 
similarity of its tree-growth, and its great altitude, will arrest 
the attention of the traveller, in connection with the Black. 
We allude to the Roan, situated in the western part of the 
county. The best route to reach it is from Carson's, on the 
Catawba, or Marion, by turnpike, to Mr. R. B. Penland's, at 
Flat Rock; thence to the foot of the Roan, at Bakersville, 
where buggies must be left, and a general resort to horseback 
made. Mr. J. A. Pearson's, at Bakersville, is the nearest 
house to the foot of the Roan. One considerable attraction of 
this mountain is the great bald spot upon its summit ; it being 
two or three miles long, with almost no tree-growth, but 
covered with the best of grass. The view from this mountain 
is said to be the most extensive and beautiful in the West. 
Its situation, overlooking the valley of East Tennessee, would 
seem to warrant this assertion. All who visit it seem to agree 
in this opinion. It is much visited from Tennessee. The 
junior editor of the JV. C. Standard, who visited it in 1857, 
speaking of his visit, says : — 

" A ride of four miles brought us to the foot of the moun- 
tain, where we commenced the ascent. From the foot to the 
top is about three miles. The ascent, along a little trail, is 
very steep. The mountaineers ride all the way up ; but, with 
a tender resfard for the interests of the N. C. Life Insurance 
Company, I preferred to walk and lead my horse, well-knowing 
that, if I should break my neck, the aforesaid company would 
suffer^ To one unaccustomed to climbing mountains, the 



CHAPTER XI. 73 

fatigue is very great. I walked and panted, frequently stop- 
ping to rest ; but ^ Cross-Roads' seemed just as much at his ease 
as on a level road. The only signs of civilization I noticed on 
the ascent were the fragments of a broken bottle and the stump 
of a cigar. 

"After something over an hour's climbing, we stood upon 
the top of the Roan. A single glance compensated for all the 
fatigue of getting there. The eye swept over a comparatively 
level prairie, several miles in extent, covered with grass, with 
huge rocks and patches of the balsam fir tree at intervals diver- 
sifying the scenery. Over this broad expanse many cattle 
graze during the summer months. Viewed from a distance, 
this bald summit presents an appearance from which it takes 
its name, — the Roan. Of all the mountains I have ever seen 
this is the most beautiful. Others are grander, more sublime, 
and more impressive ; but none are so pleasing, so romantic, 
and so charming. 

'^ Riding to a convenient point, we turned our horses loose 
to graze, and walked up to what is called the Bluff. Standing 
on the huge rocks, on the brink of a precipice, down which 
you gaze upon the mass of green foliage a thousand feet below, 
one feels a wild desire to hurl himself from his position and 
fall into the lap of nature spread so sweetly, and apparently so 
softly, in the depths on which he looks. Over this Bluff the 
clouds were flying, frosting our garments with their mist, and 
hurrying on to the rendezvous of the elements of some future 
storm. As far as the eye could reach, mountain rose over 
mountain. Their sides, and the valleys between them dotted 
with farms, looking like naked islands in the ocean of deep 
green foliage. It is impossible for language to convey an idea 
of the beauty of the scene to one who has never looked upon 
it, or something similar to it. 

" Over the Bluff rushes a strong current of air, restrained, 
as it were, in the semicircular valley below, and madly rising 

7 



74 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

over the cliff. Here you may attempt to throw your hat over 
the precipice, without the least danger of doing so. The wind 
will whirl it back, carrying it over your head far down upon 
the prairie, or lodging it among the dense growth of dwarf 
balsam firs. 

'^ About a mile from the Bluff is a large rock, the top of 
which Prof. Gruyot makes the highest point of the Roan, about 
6300 feet above the level of the ocean. Passing by a dense 
forest of the balsam fir, which we penetrated, and from which 
we cut some canes, and gathered some beautiful moss, we rode 
to this rock. 

" Near this rock runs the line between the States of North 
Carolina and Tennessee. We rode over into the latter State, 
viewed the scenery around, returned to what is called the Big 
Avery Spring, mixed our bitters with some of its cold water, 
ate our dinner, again went up on the Bluff and took another 
view, and reluctantly commenced our descent. At nine o'clock 
that night we reached the village of Burnsville, where we ate 
a hearty supper, and got a good night's sleep." 

Comparing the Roan and the Black, he says : — 

'' One leaves the top of the Roan with feelings of love, an 
appreciation of beauty, a glow of romance warming the soul 
with ideas of unutterable poetry; but he quits the Black with 
a wild sense of strife, an impression of the sublime and rug- 
ged, the tremendous reality of life. The lover may stand on 
the Roan and sigh forth sentimental sonnets ; but the soldier 
may stand on the Black and feel the kindlings of his soul for 
the din of battle. Could I see but one of them, I would prefer 
the Roan." 

The G-reat Bald Mountain, about nine miles west of the 
town of Burnsville, in Yancey County, is also worthy of some 
notice ; but it is almost inaccessible, except to the most hardy 
tourist. The bald spot upon its summit is about three hun- 
dred acres. It also presents a fine view of the valley of East 



CHAPTER XII. 75 

Tennessee. Persons wishing to visit it, go from Burnsville to 
Mr. Prophet's, at the foot of the mountain, where horses must 
be left, as there is nothing but a mere footpath up the moun- 
tain, and that very steep. Unless one wishes to see all the 
country, it is useless to visit both the Roan and the Great 
Bald. To one so inclined, it will well repay the trouble of a 
visit. 



CHAPTER XII. 

THE FRENCH RROAD RIVER AND THE WARM SPRINGS. 

The French Broad River will command very urgently the 
attention of the tourist who visits Asheville. The scenery 
upon this river is widely known, and is ever admired by those 
who have seen it. This river was called, in the Indian, 
Tockeste, or Racer. It derived its present name thus : In 
the early settlement of the country, a party of hunters left 
what was then Mecklenburg for the mountains. They named 
the first river they came to First Broad, the next Second Broad, 
and the third Main Broad. Arriving at the foot of the moun- 
tains, a portion of the party stopped ; the other part crossed 
the Gap, and, going down a creek, in what is now Buncombe 
and Henderson, called it Cane Creek, on account of the quan- 
tity of cane at its mouth. The stream into which it empties 
they called French's Broad, after the captain of their party. 

The Henderson portion of this river is not much known to 
the tourist, as, except near its source, where it is in almost a 
wild state, there is nothing very striking about it. The fine 
farms upon its banks, however, make it an object of interest to 
the agriculturist. There have been of late many beautiful 



76 MOUNTAIN ^^CKNEllY. i 

private residences placed upon tlie upper waters, and it is 
gradually becoming known to the world. That portion below 
Asheville is what we shall principally treat of; and we know 
of no better plan of bringing its beauties before our readers 
than by extracts from scattering pieces which have been here- 
tofore published. The first is from an article in the Southejm 
Quarterly Review : — ( m-" / i eU- r-^v ■■- ;•-« ' ■ - -->■ > "^ °-^, j 

" We shall never forget, though we shall be quite unable to 
describe the effect made upon ourselves, the first sights and 
sounds of this sublime passage. We travelled by night from 
Asheville, on the route to the Warm Springs. We reached 
the river along whose margin thence the road proceeds, about 
the dawn of day. In the vague and misty twilight the first 
flashings of the foaming torrent rose in sight; and, as the 
opposite shores could not be distinguished at that early hour, 
and in consequence of the heavy mist which overhung them, the 
illusion was perfect which persuaded us that we were once more 
on the borders of the great Atlantic Sea. These curling, 
flashing, white billows, reeking up and rolling over, and wal- 
lowing one after another, upon the shore, were the combing 
surfs upon our sandy islets along the eastern coast. The 
illusion was wonderfully aided by the deep and solemn roar of 
the perpetually chiding billows. They were the identical 
voices of the sea that we heard, — as if these themselves were 
not properly natives of the deep, but mountain voices, torn 
away from their proper homes, and perpetually wailing their 
exode in a chant which is mournful enough to be that of exile. 

'' It was only in the full breadth of day that we could scan 
the boundaries beyond, and justly appreciate the wild grandeur 
of the route along which we sped. Our road, an excellent 
one for the mountains, is cut out along the very margin of the 
river. Occasionally there is no ledge to protect you from the 
steep. The track does not often admit of two carriages 
abreast; and huge, immovable boulders sometimes contract. 



CHAPTER XII. 77 

to the narrowest measures, the pathway for the single one. 
You wind along the precipice with a perpetual sense of danger, 
which increases the sublimity of the scene. The river, mean- 
while boils, and bounds, and rages at your feet, tossing in strange 
writhings over the fractured masses of the rock, plunging head- 
long with a groan, into great cavities between ; now fretting 
over a long line of barrier masses, now leaping with a surging 
hiss, down sudden steeps which it approaches unprepared. 
Beyond, you note the perpendicular heights, stern^ dark, 
jagged, impending a thousand feet in air. 

'' You find yourself suddenly in a cavernous avenue : look 
up, and behold an enormous boulder, thrust out from the 
mountain sides, hanging completely over you like a mighty 
Atlantean roof, but such a roof as threatens momently to topple 
down, in storm and thunder, on your head. And thus, with a 
sense keenly alive to the startling aspects in the forms around 
you, the superior grandeur of the heights, the proofs which, 
they everywhere present that the volcano and the torrent have 
but recently done their work of convulsion and revolution, you 
hurry on for miles, relieved occasionally by scenes of a strangely 
sweet beauty in the stream ; where the valleys are calm ; where 
they no longer hiss, and boil, and rage, and roar, in conflict 
with the masses whose bonds they have broken ; and where, 
leaping away into an even and unruffled flow, they seem to 
sleep in lakes whose edges bear fringes of flowery vines and 
the loveliest floral tangles, from which you may pluck at seasons 
the purplest berries, drooping to the very lips of the waters. 

" Sometimes these seeming lakes gather about the prettiest 
islets, such as prompt you to fancy abodes such as the English 
fairies delighted to explore, and where, indeed, the Cherokee 
has placed a class of spirits, with strange mysterious powers, 
who were acknowledsred to maintain a sino;ular influence over 
the red man's destinies. A landscape painter, of real talent^ 
would find along the two great stems of the French Broad, a 



78 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

thousand pictures, far superior to anything ever yet gathered 
from the banks of the Hudson, or the groups of the Catskill.'' 

Upon this river is situated that famous and marvellous work 
of nature, — the Warm Springs. They are very valuable as to 
medicinal properties, both as a bath and for drinking. In the 
fall of 1858, the author forwarded a quantity of the water to 
Prof. W. J. Martin, of Chapel Hill, who, in reply, says of it : — 

'''■ I analyzed the water, qualitatively, the day after I got it, 
and found in it free carbonic acid, free sulphuretted hydrogen, 
carbonic acid in combination with lime, sulphuric acid also in 
combination with lime, and a trace of magnesia. It is possible 
that the original water may be richer, and a portion of the 
gases may have escaped before it got to me, as the sealing of 
the jug was broken. '' The water was not analyzed quantita- 
tiveliy, because Prof. Martin's letter failed to reach the author 
in time. 

The editor of the Asheville Spectator visited'these springs 
in 1858, and said of them and the French Broad, — 

'' Every person who has ever visited our mountains, and 
also those of Virginia, has yielded the palm of beauty, if not, 
too, of sublimity, to our scenery. And it will ever remain an 
undisputed fact that our own mineral waters are as beneficial 
to the diseased system as waters of like kind in Virginia. None 
deny the infallible eflScacy of our Warm Springs in cases of 
rheumatism and like diseases. It is universally acknowledged 
that, except in the Hot Springs of Arkansas, they have no 
rival. To this lovely spot we have lately paid a visit, and can 
add our testimony to that of hundreds of others as to the 
healing qualities of its tepid waters. 

^Tor nearly thirty miles the high frowning mountains press 
themselves into the waters of the French Broad River, leaving 
on one side a track hardly wide enough for a carriage-way. 
Suddenly the southwest bank recedes, and a level plain, of 
considerable extent, meets the traveller's eye. Near the mid- 



en A ITER XI!. 79 

die of this plain is a lovely grove, in which is seen the hotel. 
A few yards in front roll on, in unceasing turbulence, the long 
pent-up waters of the French Broad. The wild grandeur of 
the scenery, which constantly demands the traveller's eye 
along the river, is famous, wherever the beautiful in nature is 
admired. 

^' The AVarm Springs Hotel is now owned by Dr. J. A. 
McDowell. As it was our first visit to the Springs, we know 
not how it has heretofore been ; but, if the present is a type 
of the future, the traveller for health, or for pleasure, will ever 
find them an antidote for sickness^ and a most pleasant retreat 
from the cares and toils of business. It has been our good 
fortune to have been at many watering-places, but never at 
one where the comfort of the visitor was more looked to by the 
proprietor; and where, all things taken into consideration, the 
inner and outer man fared better. Every accommodation for 
bathing is rendered which is possible. There is, beside the 
warm spring-bath, a fine shower and plunge-bath, supplied 
with water from one of our pure cold mountain streams. So, 
therefore, the invalid may find near to him that which he 
needs; and the man of health, by a short walk, can still 
further invigorate his system. 

"The Warm Springs present more attractions, leaving out 
of view the invalid, to the seeker of pleasure, than probably 
any watering-place in the South — certainly in this section. In 
front and around the hotel runs the French Broad, where he 
may fish ; while, if he would grace his hook with that daintiest 
of the finny tribe — if our readers will pardon us, the Yenus de 
Medici of fishes — the speckled trout of the mountains, he has 
them in a ride over the mountains of four or five miles. And, 
should he be a good marksman, and luck favor him, he can, 
with a little trouble, carry home the antlers of a Carolina buck. 
With these and many other attractions, we defy any one to 
stay there without enjoying himself. We need not speak of 



80 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

tlie beautiful and grand mountain scenery, — it must be visited 
to be appreciated ; its beauties cannot be described, nor can 
tbe awe wbicli inspires one in beholding its solemn grandeur 
be conceived. 

" Through, the politeness of Dr. McDowell, we visited the 
Boiling, or Limestone Spring, — quite a curiosity in its way. 
This Spring is perceptibly impregnated with lime, but not so 
much so as to be unpleasant to the taste. Quite a large stream 
is formed from its boils. It is one mile and a half from the 
Warm Spring." 

Another writer says : "No one should visit Asheville with- 
out taking a ride down the French Broad Biver, to the Warm 
Springs, in Madison County. The turnpike road is excellent, 
the river beautiful, and the scenery on both sides wild and 
grand. The public houses, too, are very good. At one of them, 
Baird's, there is a first rate chalybeate spring; and, if any in- 
valid needs that kind of water, and desires a quiet, rural place, 
and the best of eatables, let him go there. They catch large 
red horse-fishes all along the road, and know just how they 
ought to be served up to suit the most fastidious appetite." 
. . . . " The Warm Springs, every one must admit, are the 
most curious and remarkable phenomena in nature ; just think 
of it, — they are right on the bank of the French Broad River, 
not more than ten steps from that wide stream of pure, cool, 
freestone water, and still the water of these springs ranges in 
temperature from 98° to 102°. One side of the plantation on 
which they are situated, is covered with springs of freestone 
water, and the other, with springs of limestone water, so that 
these springs must be on the dividing line between these 
different kinds of water. Some have conjectured that this 
is the cause of this water being of such a temperature. It is 
a sovereign cure for persons afflicted with rheumatism." 

Lanman, in his "Alleghany Mountains," writes of them : 
" I come now to speak of the Warm Springs, which are thirty- 



CHAPTER XII. 81 

six miles from Asheville, and within six of tlie Tennessee line. 
Of the springs themselves there are some half a dozen, but 
the largest is covered with a house, and divided into two equal 
apartments, either one of which is sufficiently large to allow of 
a swim. The temperature of the water is 105° ; and it is a 
singular fact that rainy weather has a tendency to increase the 
heat, but it never varies more than a couple of degrees. All 
the springs are directly on the southern margin of the French 
Broad Hiver. The water is clear as crystal, and so heavy that 
even a child may be thrown into it with little danger of being 
drowned. As a beverage, the water is quite palatable ; and it 
is said that some people can drink a number of quarts per day, 
and yet experience none but beneficial effects. The diseases 
which it is thought to cure are palsy, rheumatism, and cutane- 
ous affections ; but they are of no avail in curing pulmonic or 
dropsical affections. The Warm Springs are annually visited 
by a large number of fashionable and sickly people from all 
the Southern States, and the proprietor has comfortable ac- 
commodations for more than two hundred and fifty persons." 

Situated immediately on the banks of the French Broad, 
there is almost always a breeze stirring. The yard is beauti- 
fully shaded and well set in handsome grass. As a resort, 
especially for the latter part of summer, it has no superior in 
any State. 

There is a seeming strangeness in the French Broad, in its 
course from Asheville to the Springs, which has often been 
remarked. Some think that the same quantity of water does 
not pass the Springs which passes the town of Asheville, and 
a mere glance would seem to warrant the supposition. That 
there may be some unknown suck-hole, is not unreasonable, 
considering its approach to the limestone formation, where 
such thino;s are so common. 

The Warm Springs are reached, by stage from Asheville, in 
thirty-five miles, — one of the best lines in the country. It 



82 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

leaves Asheville early in the morning, and readies the Springs 
to dinner. By the same means they can be visited from 
Greenville, Tennessee, in twenty-five miles ; at that point the 
stage connects with the East Tennessee and Virginia Railroad. 
Fare from Asheville, ^3 50. A pleasant trip, for the tourist, 
would be from the Warm Springs to the valley of East Ten- 
nessee, and up to the Holston Springs, on the borders of Vir- 
ginia; thence back through North Carolina, or returning 
through Virginia, by the cities of Lynchburg and Richmond. 
The whole route, from Asheville to Greenville, Tennessee, is 
travelled in daylight. The coaches are large and comfortable, 
the drivers careful and accommodating, and the road good. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

PLEASANT COUNTRY STOPPING-PLACES. 

In the section of country which we have run over, there 
are many pleasant places at which the seeker for health may 
sojourn with comfort and benefit, and the while be away from 
the dust and bustle of town. To persons who desire quiet and 
rest for the wearied body, such places are far preferable to the 
towns, and more general public resorts. 

First among such places we mention Carson's, near Plea- 
sant Gardens, on the Catawba. We have before mentioned 
this place. It has, perhaps, more attractions than any other. 
About two miles up the creek is a fine Sulphur Spring, to 
which is a beautiful road. One, however, as a place of rest, 
will be perfectly content with the immediate place of abode. 
We have never seen any place which conveyed so good an idea 
of pei:fect repose as this. The yard is beautifully adorned with 



CHAPTER XIII. 83 

grass of the richest green, and shaded with the loveliest ever- 
greens, even the dark balsam of the Black Mountains. Did 
one want to live out his days in sweet content, amid fancied 
picturings of paradisial beauty, I know of no place better 
suited to the taste than this residence. A writer says of it : — 

'^ That night we spent with Col. Carson, who lives on the 
bank of Elk Creek. His residence filled our eyes full. It is 
in the midst of the mountains, and his dwelling-house is em- 
bowered amid large and magnificent old forest trees, and stands 
only a rod from the clear and rippling Elk. Poet could not 
fancy, nor artist paint a dwelling-place, which, if real, could 
more completely satisfy the human heart." 

We may mention, with equal commendation, another lo- 
cality upon the same road, some few^miles nearer the Gap than 
Carson's, Gen, A. Burgin's, Old Fort Post-Office. There is 
no pleasanter place anywhere than his house. Excellent ac- 
commodations for the inner and the outer man are provided ; 
and the mountains and river furnish ample means for recrea- 
tion and pleasure. 

Another place of considerable attractions is Mr. R. B. Pen- 
land's, at what is called Flat Rock, in Yancey County. This 
location is immediately on the road to the Boan Mountain. I 
know of no place where a guest will be more attentively looked 
to than there. The table is as good as the mountains afford, 
while the sojourner may rest assured that its contents are well 
and cleanly done up. A look within and around the house is 
sufiicient to make the traveller feel that he will be comfortably 
attended to. A writer says of this place : " I left Childsville 
yesterday morning, and it has done nothing but rain almost 
ever since. It bids fair though to be a pretty sunset this 
evening. But I believe the sun always sets fair here. I am 
now at the residence of Mr. R. B. Penland, called, among the 
people here. Flat Rock, and as pleasant a spot to be at as any I 
know of. The situation of the place itself is delightful. From 



84 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

a position, near the house, the Roan Mountain is seen on the 
wes£, and the Black Mountains on the southeast. 

" The sun is setting beautifully. From where I am sitting 
I can see it fade far, far away, and the sky is covered with 
that magnificent crimson tinge so peculiar to mountain sunsets. 
The crest of the towering Koan is covered with a cap of clouds, 
which change their milky hue for a lovely delicate purple ; 
and, leaving everything in a panorama of beauty, and the soft- 
ness of repose, the sun sinks to rest behind the gilded crests 
of the mountains. How truly might it be said that, 

"'To count 
The thick-sown glories in this field of fire. 
Perhaps a seraph's computation fails.' " 

This house is reached from Carson's in about twenty-four 
miles. No person, visiting the Roan, should fail to stop at 
least one night there. To boarders the charge is moderate, 
not only there, but all over the country. 

Upon the French Broad, there are at least two houses at 
which the traveller will find himself most agreeably enter- 
tained, — Mr. A. E. Baird's, at Marshall, in Madison County, 
and Mr. A. Alexander's, twelve miles from Asheville. The 
first has been before mentioned, and it cannot be commended 
too highly. Situated within a few feet of the French Broad, 
one can sit upon the piazza and look on the unceasing flow of 
its waters, and, on retiring to rest, be lulled to sleep by their 
soft musical murmur. It is situated twenty miles from Ashe- 
ville, and fifteen from the Warm Springs. A good place to 
dine, even if one does not care to stop longer. There is 
an excellent chalybeate spring, a short walk from the house, 
the water of which is superior to any we ever tasted. Mr. 
Alexander's is similarly situated on the banks of the river. 
It is the breakfast and supper house for the stage, and the 
fame of the table is extensive and invariably favorable. There 



CHAPTER XIV. 85 

is a chalybeate spring two miles and a half from the house. 
Mr, Alexander is an attentive landlord. 

On the Swannanoa, Mr. George Alexander's is a pleasant 
stopping-place. It is twelve miles from Asheville, situated 
very prettily, and with a very good view on all sides. 

Mr. Sherrill's, on the Hickory-Nut Gap road, near the top 
of the mountain, is a very pleasant place, and affords a fine 
view. It is about fifteen miles from Asheville. It is a cool, 
pleasant place in summer. 

Mr. Washington Harris's, on the same road, has a very high 
reputation as a stopping-place. It is there one should stop to 
visit the beauties of the Gap. The beauties of the scenery 
around his house have been before spoken of. A fine view of 
all of it can be had from his house. His table is always well 
supplied, and his guests made comfortable in everyway possible. 
His house is twenty-three miles from Asheville, and fifteen 
from Kutherfordton. 

There are other places of stoppage, which have been hereto- 
fore mentioned, at which the traveller can linger as long as 
taste or fancy may dictate, and will not find himself tired unless 
so of good eating and excellent accommodations. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

THE WESTERN COUNTIES. 

When the tourist arrives at Asheville, he often hears that 
portion of the table land west of Asheville, spoken of under 
the name of Western Counties. In this term are included 
the counties of Haywood, Jackson, Macon, and Cherokee ; 

8 



86 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

and, although the tourist may not feel inclined to go into this, 
to many natives of our State, unknown region, we cannot close 
without devoting to them a brief chapter, as their merits, viewed 
as to agricultural and mineral wealth, and as to beauty of 
scenery, demand it. These four counties cover an extent of 
country at least one hundred and sixty miles long, and 
averaging about sixty in width. Within this extent are some 
of the grandest mountains and loveliest rivers that the eye 
ever rested on. 

The traveller leaves Asheville and travels up the valley of 
Hommony Creek, to th(? sources of that stream ; there it crosses 
the mountain ; and so much higher is the general face of the 
country in Haywood than in Buncombe, that it is with only a 
slight descent he finds himself upon the banks of Pigeon River, 
with the broad, fertile fields of its valley stretched out for 
miles before his eye. Crossing the river, in two miles, he 
reaches Mr. Patton's, a stopping-place, where the traveller will 
find himself well accommodated, and well fed. Ten miles 
further, and thirty miles from Asheville, is the town of 
Waynesville. There are several hotels here; the only one 
with which we are acquainted is Mr. Moody's, where the 
traveller will find himself well cared for. In a short walk from 
this place is an excellent white sulphur spring; and should 
that section of country be ever opened to railroad communica- 
tion, the beautiful situation of the town and its many attractive 
surroundings, will make it a place of much resort. The 
Balsam Mountain is plainly seen from this place. It is the 
only peak, besides the Roan and the Black, which has the 
balsam growth upon it. A pleasant trip, for one who has the 
time, is up Pigeon River, there to spend a few days or weeks 
in fishing for trout and hunting deer, and viewing the fine 
scenery around the head of that stream. It is worth a trip up 
there to see the crops growing in the valley ; and its inhabi- 



CHAPTER XIV. 0/ 

tants are as hospitable and intelligent as any portion of that 
section. 

Leaving Waynesville, the tourist, if alone, can linger lei- 
surely along the road; but, if he has company, an early start 
and no lagging, will, in a drive of forty miles, allow him to 
reach Franklin, the county-seat of Macon. All along the 
road the watchful eye will detect many fine- views. In this 
day's travel, he passes entirely through the county of Jack- 
son, a long, narrow county, rich in minerals and fertile soil, 
but, as yet, almost entirely unnoticed. In the northern end 
of the county, a large number of the Cherokee Indians still 
reside ; and the tourist who chooses to visit them, can do so by 
taking, at Webster, the road to Quallah Town. There he will 
meet with the former Indian Agent, W. H. Thomas, Esq., 
who will take pleasure in showing the visitor not only the 
Indians, but anything else of interest in his county. 

At Franklin, the traveller can pause awhile, as there he 
will find a pleasant place and intelligent people. It has two 
churches, Methodist and Presbyterian; and two hotels, — one 
in the centre of the town is immediately on the street, and is 
kept by W. N. All man ; the other, in a retired, quiet spot, at 
the western end of the town, is situated in a beautiful grove 
of trees, kept by Mr. Jesse Tiler. From Franklin the tourist 
can visit the Falls of the Chulsagee, or Sugar Fork of Tennes- 
see River, and the Whiteside Mountain, which we have here- 
tofore mentioned. These Falls are said to be a very sublime 
and beautiful work of nature. The Falls of the Tuckasegee 
River, in Jackson County, are thought, by many, to surpass 
in beauty anything of the kind they have ever seen. These 
last thouo'h are diflficult to 2;et to. 

Leaving Franklin, the tourist who wishes to go farther, will 
cross the Nantahala Mountains, and, in twenty miles, reach 
Mr. Munday's, on the banks of a stream of the same name. 
It is our opinion that no prettier stream exists on earth than 



88 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. ^ 

this. Had the poet, who sung of Swannanoa, as ''the love- 
liest river of our sunny southern clime/' seen it, he would 
have placed Nantahala in the highest position. It is very 
famous for the immense number of speckled trout caught in 
its waters, and Mr. Munday's is the place to get them served 
up nicely. Leaving Mr. Munday's, unless the traveller chooses 
to pause there a day or two, a ride of ten miles, across the 
Valley Town Mountain, brings him to Mr. Walker's, on the 
head-waters of Valley River. And we know of no more plea- 
sant place to spend any length of time than there. Without 
disparagement to any other, we know of no place where one is 
better cared for, either in point of appetite or rest. A ride of 
eighteen miles, immediately on the banks of the Valley River, 
will land us at Murphy, the county-town of Cherokee. And 
here he must pause, for a few more" miles will take him to 
Tennessee or Georgia. Returning, the traveller may, at Mr. 
Walker's, take the Tuckasegee turnpike, and pass over a coun- 
try entirely new and very interesting, leaving Franklin to the 
right. By this route, he passes immediately by the Marble 
Mountain, Blowing Cave and Quallah Town. 

A writer, in the iV. C Preshyterian, says of the route to 
Franklin : — 

" Beyond the ridge, the bold precipitous features are more 
rai'e. There is less of grandeur, but more of beauty. The 
rugged rocks give way to gentler declivities, covered with 
heavier forests below; while higher up the sides, and upon 
the summits, the sombre fir, or balsam tree, so called, adds 
interest to the prospect. Or, more rarely, they are entirely 
destitute of anything but the barren sedge upon the highest 
peaks. Nor are they found in such long continuous ranges, 
but stand about in groups of a few miles in diameter. We 
might mention the Balsam, or Scotch Creek Mountains, the 
Richland, the Cowee, the Nantahala, with others whose local 
names were not gathered. Beyond Asheville, in the counties 



CHAPTER XIV. 89 

of Haywood, Jackson, and Macon, to which may be added 
Henderson, south of Buncombe, and Buncombe itself, there 
are many beautiful and exceedingly fertile tracts of country, 
whose rich virgin soil yields a large harvest of the natural 
crops. These tracts generally lie along the banks of rivers 
unheard of by the dwellers in the middle and eastern part of 
the State. Who has heard, for instance, of the beautiful 
Pigeon Biver, glancing along in the sunlight almost as swiftly 
as the bird whose name it bears ? Who has heard of the 
Tuckasegee? or who remembers that there is a respectable 
Tennessee river in our State ? And yet they are there, mur- 
muring on, in their hasty flight, to mingle their crystal waters 
with the mighty Mississippi. And there are little villages, 
embosomed in the mountains, whose very names are unfamiliar 
to us. Of course everybody has heard of Asheville, romanti- 
cally situated, and tastefully built among the hills, hard by 
the beautiful Swannanoa and the dashing French Broad, and 
many bear witness to the taste, polish, and, at)ove all, the 
warm-hearted hospitality of its inhabitants. But everybody 
has not yet learned that Waynesville, in Haywood County, is 
surrounded by as beautiful scenery as can be found in the 
State. When art shall have done as much for it as nature 
has, it will be a gem of the mountains. On the west, the 
Balsam range of mountains hems it in, and Bald Mountain, 
with his head wrapped in clouds, stands sentinel near by, and 
frowns across the valley at his neighbors; and other nameless 
peaks swell up in every direction. A few miles on this side 
of Franklin, there is a new experience for the traveller. It is 
the ascent and descent of Cowee Mountain. The turnpike 
winds gracefully around it, or strikes out in bold, zigzag lines, 
with the mountain on one side, and frightful chasms or gorges 
gaping on the other. A few feet here would make all the 
difference in the world in the selection of a standing-point. 
Near Franklin, on the banks of the Tennessee, there is a cir- 

8* 



90 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

cular mound, in the form of a truncated cone, evidently the 
remains of the aboriginal inhabitants. It seems that the 
neighboring Indians, the Cherokees, have no tradition which 
explains its use, and no very satisfactory explanation is found 
elsewhere. It is thought, by some, that it was used for the 
celebration of the ^ Grreen-Corn Dance.' Others think that 
these mounds were used for fortifications. This is rendered 
probable, by the discovery of jointed timbers in the bottom, 
which seems to indicate that the superincumbent earth had 
been once sustained on a strong frame. This frame yielding, 
the central earth would sink, and leave the mound a truncated 
cone. Perhaps, however, they were mausolea, erected, like 
the Pyramids of Egypt, to the memory of distinguished chiefs. 
This is rendered probable, by the discovery of human skele- 
tons in similar ones in the valley of the Mississippi. 

'' This whole country is one of vast resources. It contains 
water-force enough to turn the machinery of the United States. 
Its mountain, sides and gorges, and its valleys will afford pas- 
turage for innumerable cattle. Its mineral wealth, though 
unhappily thus far more fruitful of litigation than anything 
else, is said to be great. Its agricultural resources are not 
insignificant, and it possesses a mine of wealth in the energy 
and life of its inhabitants.'' 

The editor of the Aslieville Spectator passed through these 
counties in March, 1858. We extract from his remarks : 
'^ About 10 o'clock I commenced the ascent of the Nantihala 
Mountain — perhaps one of the greatest curiosities in the way 
of roads in the world. Its twistings and turnings are really 
labyrinthical. It is said, with truth, that a gentleman from 
the low country, in ascending it, came to one of the chief 
turns, and, instead of turning up, turned down the mountain, 
and pursued his way several miles before he discovered his 
mistake. Any of my readers may form an idea of it if they 
have ever seen a long black snake run up a steep rock. In 



CHAPTER XIV. 91 

one place the road makes a perfect M ', and you may travel 
two or three miles and then roll a stone to where you started 
from. 

"The ascent was magnificent; for awhile we were enveloped 
in a cloud, which, sweeping over mountain top and valley, 
left on every tree and shrub the frigid marks of its solemn 
presence. The whole mountain top, as far as the eye could 
reach, was covered with the clippings from the hoary locks of 
its visitor. The giant mass of fleecy clouds would sweep along 
with slow and solemn grandeur, resting awhile on those points 
where earth most sought the heavens, as if of too high an 
origin to dwell in the common level, suddenly swooping down 
would trace its frail solidity upon the lower vale, and rise 
again to contemplate its work. I have stood on the lofty 
precipice, have seen the mighty cataract in all its terrible 
sublimity, but never have I seen nature's artistry traced so 
eloquently and with such solemn beauty; combining every 
delicacy of touch and finish, blending together beauty and 
sublimity in one of those rare and magnificent master-pieces 
which seem to draw heaven and earth together. 

" As we commenced descending the mountain, the cloud 
passed over us, and we were covered with the congealed drop- 
pings of its misty composition. It seemed as if JMother Gary, 
tired of the continued warm weather on sea, had bagged up 
her chickens, and brought them to the mountains for a general 
picking. The descent of the mountain is much more rapid 
than its ascent, and presents hardly so animating a view as the 
other. Yet the deep verdure of the spruce and white pines, 
and laurel, with their evergreen tresses drooped as if mourning 
that their hopes of returning spring were again blasted, pre- 
sented a pleasing and attractive landscape. The intense thick- 
ness of the laurel is somewhat of a curiosity to those unused 
to viewing it ; but, if I may use the expression of a reri/ dis- 
tinguished Virginian, ' the intense frigidity of the circum- 



92 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

ambient atmosphere so congealed' my ^ corporosit j' that I 

thought of but little else than reaching a good fire 

The valley of Valley River is one of the most beautiful I have 
ever seen ; and, in fertility, it does not deceive its looks. Not 
only is the soil fertile, but there is, in the hillsides and valleys, 
a mineral wealth perfectly inexhaustible. Iron, lead, silver, 
and gold abound in chief. Marble, of various qualities and 
species, is found in the greatest abundance. I was surprised 
to see, in Murphy, numbers of chimneys built of marble, which, 
by a little work, is capable of the highest polish ; while in the 
quarry is found an immense vein of the purest white. Near 
this marble vein is found the remains of an old mine, which 
has existed for years. Tradition says that it was once worked 
by white men from the south, supposed to have been 
Spaniards. It is very certain that the metal the persons 
who dug the pit must have been in search of, was silver, not 
gold. There is a probability that De Soto, in his march over 
the country, searching for wealth, may have penetrated the 
western part of our State. Bancroft's account of his move- 
ments gives probability to the supposition. There are immense 
works there, which could only have been carried on by a large 
force, or for a small one have taken a series of years ; and as 
no traces of houses are visible, it is fair to suppose that but a 
few days sufficed to De Soto, and his army, to test the vein. 
A copper vessel, — a sort of crucible, — was found there some 
years ago, with evident signs of having been subjected to fire, 
and traces of a white metal still remaining in it. The vein 
of lead, silver, and gold, — more valuable for lead and silver 
than anything else, — follows close upon the marble vein, 
rather to its southern side. The indications of iron are very 
strong on the road down the mountain, but the only mines 
which have been worked are in the valley near to the road. 
I was told that articles of iron-ware sold, in Cherokee, at from 
three to five cents per pound, — never dearer than the latter 



CHAPTER XiV. 93 

sum. They have iron- works in the county, with no facilities 
for o-ettiug: either the manufactured or raw article to market. 
Copper has been found in some places, but it is not so valuable 
as the other minerals. It is very evident to me, from what I 
have seen, that the valley of Valley Kiver contains more un- 
developed wealth than any section of the same size in the 
world. I have never seen its equal in all points, and its 
superior would be too precious for earth. I could stand and 
gaze at it, — beautiful even in its not half cultivated state, — 
and my heart swells with pride, when I think that all this 
beauty is within my own glorious Carolina. But how neg- 
lected, how unknown ! How many of the wealthy farmers of 
Hyde, Tyrell, Washington, or Carteret, know that amid the 
fastnesses of our mountains as many bushels of corn can be 
raised to the acre as on their boasted swamp lands? None, 
we fear none. Nor will they ever know until they have more 
of a North Carolina spirit. 

" I spent nearly a day at Mr. Walker's, on the upper waters 
of Valley River, and a pleasanter spot to stay at I have seldom 
found. I would recommend persons visiting the Western 
Mountains, to call on him. I learned that, about fourteen 
miles from his house, there is a large and high mountain, 
wholly of beautiful flesh-colored marble, and that there is in it a 
blowing cave. It has never been explored more than twenty 
or thirty yards. Circumstances prevented my visiting it. It 
is certainly a curiosity worthy of being brought into notice. 
If there were nothing else of interest about it, the beauty of 
the flesh-colored marble, of which its sides are composed, would 
render it attractive. 

" At Murphy, I saw numbers of Indians, and having but little 
to do, busied myself in searching about for a good-looking one; 
which I failed to discover, and at length came to the conclusion 
that poetry and romance might throw a halo of beauty around 
the form and feature of the Indian maiden, yet stern reality 



I 



94 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

would lend not an atom of truth to the enchanting picture. I 
am sure that Minnehaha is not to be found among the Chero- 
kees; nor can there be traced the manly form of Hiawatha, 
unless a hump-shouldered, big-headed, short-necked, and some- 
what of a wedge-shaped species of humanity, can call to mind 
the fair proportions of the warrior lover, whose tender wooing 
and noble ideal exists only in the imagination of the poet. So 
far as I have seen them, the Cherokees are a lazy, good-for- 
nothing set of people, ignorant of our habits and customs, and 
desiring to be more ignorant than they are. To exist and 
breathe, is about all they care for. There are noble exceptions 
to this rule, but they are not numerous.'' 

The cost of a trip throughout this section will not exceed 
$20 or $25. It depends entirely upon how long the trip 
is, and how long one stays in the towns. There is a hack-line 
going through the whole extent of these counties, but I would 
advise all who wish to view the scenery, and enjoy themselves, 
to go in their own conveyances. Such is, in fact, the most 
pleasant way to travel over the whole West, and is not so 
costly, unless the tourist stops long in the towns. For the 
seeker of health I would advise taking the trip on horseback. 



CHAPTER XV. 

PRODUCTIONS OF THE WEST. 

It may not be amiss, in bringing this little book to a close, 
to say something of the productions of the soil in the West, 
and the wild animals native there. The general soil of the 
West is good, and even upon the mountains it is equal to the 
best. lands in the low country. In the valleys, the inhabi- 



CHAPTER XV. 95 

tants, with their imperfect system of cultivation, find but little 
difficulty, in a good season, in raising from forty to sixty 
bushels of corn to the acre; while, upon some of the bottoms, 
where more care is taken, they raise one hundred bushels to 
the acre, and sometimes over. The whole country is peculiarly 
adapted to grazing, and all kinds of grass grow with luxuri- 
ance. The mountain sides being almost entirely free from 
undergrowth, naturally spring up in grass, which makes the 
range of a most excellent quality. While, too, there is an 
almost unfailing mast of oak, chestnut, beech, sugar maple, 
and linn. The products of the soil by culture are very exten- 
sive. Corn, wheat, rye, oats, barley, buckwheat, tobacco, 
Chinese sugarcane; and, in fact, everything which can be 
raised anywhere else in the State, except rice and cotton. The 
country affords every variety of climate and soil. Agriculture 
is as yet, however, in but a poorly advanced stage, unless in 
the immediate neighborhood of Asheville. Hon. T. L. Cling- 
man, in his address before the State Agricultural Society, says 
of this mountain region : — 

" At its extreme borders, there rises up a mountainous re- 
gion, with bolder scenery, and a more bracing climate. Few 
of our own citizens realize the extent of this district, or are 
aware of the fact, that it is three hundred miles in length, and 
has probably more than forty peaks, that surpass in altitude 
Mount Washington, long regarded as the most elevated point 
in the Atlantic States. Though this region does not present 
the glacier fields and eternal snows of the Alps, yet their want 
is amply atoned for by a vegetation rich as the tropics them- 
selves can boast of. Rocky masses, of immense height and 
magnitude, and long ridges and frightful precipices are to be 
found; but the prevailing character of this section is one of 
such fertility, that the forest trees attain their most magnifi- 
cent proportions on the sides, and even about the tops of the 
highest mountains. There, too, are to be seen, those strange 



0() MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

treeless tracts, which the aboriginal inhabitants supposed to be 
the foot-prints of the ' Evil One/ as he stepped from mountain 
to mountain. Their smooth, undulating surfaces, covered with 
waving grasses, suggest far different associations to the present 
beholders. 

" The landscape is variegated, too, by tracts of thirty, and 
even forty miles in extent, covered with dense forests of the 
balsam fir trees, appearing, in the distance, dark as ' the plu- 
mage of the raven's wing,' and green carpets of elastic moss, 
and countless vernal flowers, among which the numerous spe- 
cies of the azalea, the kalmia, and the rhododendron, especially 
contend in the variety, delicacy, and brilliancy of their hues. 
From the sides of the mountains flow cold and limpid streams 
along broad and beautiful valleys. Though such a region as 
this can never weary the eye, its chief merit is, that almost 
every part of it is fitted to be occupied by, and to minister to 
the wants of man." 

A writer, in the iV. C. Preshyteriany speaking of Yancey, 
says : — 

"I was surprised at the variety and beauty of the wild 
flowers, which peeped their heads, of varied hue, above the 
ground on every side. In fact, it seems that everything which 
does grow in the mountains is produced in greater luxuriance 
than in the lowlands. I noticed several colors of the lobelia, 
all very pretty; and I was much struck with a flower called, 
by the inhabitants, snake's head. But the object of most 
attraction, in the botanical line, was the immense number and 
varied forms of the mosses and ferns. There is a plant, which 
I found among the mountains, which, though little known in 
the East, has been, for years, an article of great commercial 
value to tl\e mountain region. I allude to ginseng. One of 
my guides pointed it out to me, and said that the day had been 
when anybody could gather six or eight pounds (worth about 
$1 25), but now it took a fight smart hand to get that much. 



CIlAPTKll XV. 97 

It is sent to New York, and thence shipped to China. The 
trade is not as largely carried on now as formerly. 

''The tree-growth of the mountains has, too, much of inte- 
rest in it. ' The ordinary trees are chestnut and oak, white 
pine, spruce, and hemlock. The balsam is a growth peculiar 
to the Black Mountains, the Roan, and several other high 
mountains. The color of its leaf is of a dark green, shaped 
like the pine, but shorter, and they cluster around the bough 
upon all sides. At a distance, it has a black appearance, 
which gives the name to the mountains. There are two varie- 
ties, which might be classed as male and female. One is not 
of so intense a deep green, and produces no gum ; the other 
is much the prettiest tree, and has the blisters, containing 
balsam, scattered over its trunk. A balsam blister is some- 
what like a boil. The inhabitants gather the balsam, by 
pricking the blister with an instrument similar to the charger 
for a gun. The blister is a little sac, inserted between the 
outer and inner bark, and, by careful work, can be taken 
whole from its resting-place, and, on being held to light, is of 
a yellowish, transparent color. The gum is good for sores, 
cuts, &c., and resembles virgin turpentine. The bark peels 
easily from the green tree, but, when dry, crisps, and holds 
tightly to the trunk. I have been told of instances of hunters 
sleeping in the bark as stripped from a tree. 

" Another growth, of some peculiarity, is the linn tree, from 
which the river Linville takes its name. It has a large, beauti- 
ful leaf, and would make a fine tree for ornament. It is chiefly 
valued for the use of cattle, as it is the first to put out its 
leaves in spring, and the last to fade in autumn. We see, 
too, the cucumber tree, which, though a curious aflfair, is, I 
believe, of no great use, except such as all trees. The wahoo, 
or Indian bitter, resembles both the cucumber and the linn. 
It bears a fruit similar to the wild cucumber, — a red substance, 
more like a balsam of Grilead apple than anything else I can 

9 



98 ^MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

liken it to. The bark, steeped in liquor, is said to have mira- 
culous effect in curing the chills and fevers ; but, as they do 
not have that disease in the region where it grows, or very 
slight cases, I cannot say a great deal as to its truth. The 
sugar maple has been often heard of by most of your readers. 
It, too, is a product of the mountains, and, from its sap, much 
sugar and syrup are made. It resembles much our common 
maple, but the leaf has not so many scollops. 

''The chief cultivated productions of the section through 
which I passed are wheat, corn, rye, oats, and buckwheat. I 
regretted to see that the crops generally were rather poor. I 
noticed, in the forest, an unusual quantity of mast of all kinds, 
which looks like fat and cheap bacon. I was somewhat sur- 
prised to see, throughout the county of Yancey, tobacco grow- 
ing very luxuriantly. Every house had a patch close by. The 
leaves are dried by hanging up, and then it is used for smoking. 
The Chinese sugar-cane has a place on nearly every farm. 

'' The mineral resources of the section which was the sub- 
ject of my observation, are, by no means, inconsiderable. In 
Yancey, my attention was called to a mine upon Jack's Creek, 
near Burnsville, which was said to be silver. As I did not 
see a specimen of the ore, I cannot speak of it. The mine is 
known, to old inhabitants, to have been open over eighty 
years; and, an old tradition says, that white men from the 
south (probably Spaniards), worked it in the days of the In- 
dians. I was told that lead was, at this day, found upon 
the Bald Mountain, by a citizen of the county, who refused, 
for any consideration, to tell his secret. In time past, a rich 
vein was known to exist there, but many searches by the in- 
habitants have. failed to reveal it. I suppose, if some man of 
science were to direct his attention to these mountains, the 
true state of the hidden treasure might be discovered. Cop- 
per and iron are known to exist on the South Toe River, right 
under the shade of the Black Mountain. Upon Gingercake 



CHAPTER XV. 69 

and Linville Mountains, both in the edge of Burke, the finest 
quality of iron ore exists in large quantities. And, in years 
gone by, a lead mine was worked upon the banks of the Lin- 
ville River. So rich was the ore, the old inhabitants say, that 
it was smelted in a common fire, and the lead would run out 
like water. On a spur of the Bluff Ridge, near the Linville, 
I am informed, that black lead has been found of a good 
quality. Turning a little south, into McDowell County, and 
just in the head of North Cove, we find a mine rich in lead 
and silver. It has been worked just enough to show its value. 
It exists just on the edge of the limestone formation, of which 
I have spoken ; and whence, it is my opinion, good marble 
may be obtained. 

" There are, in other places than I have mentioned, mineral 
substances of great value. On Rheim's Creek, in Buncombe, 
the remains of a forge yet exist which was erected, I believe, 
by an ancestor of Hon. D. L. Swain. Why it was abandoned, 
I am not informed. Ori a branch of the same creek there is 
a salt lick. Whether there be salt there of any amount, or 
value, I know not, but the cattle delight to resort to it, and 
have, with their licking, made a hole large enough to put a 
small house in. There is but little probability that it will be 
developed soon. I was presented with a specimen of pure 
copper from Henderson County. It is certainly the genuine 
article. There is found in Buncombe, on Cane Creek also, a 
limestone vein, from which some lime has been made. Pro- 
bably it is the same vein which exists in North Cove. 

" I was surprised to see the great quantity of mineral water 
which exists throughout Yancey County. The chief ingredient 
is iron. In fact, almost all the water in the county partakes 
more or less of that mineral. There are some faint traces of 
sulphur, but in no great abundance. The inhabitants do not 
seem to regard the mineral as of any great advantage, but will 



100 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

let it run to waste, while tliey improve the more purely free- 
stone water. 

''There is one feature of the mountains, however, which I 
have omitted, — the wild animals. First of these, and being 
the most numerous, stands the black bear. He grows some- 
what larger than in the swamps of the East, and has a more 
glossy and fur-like coat of hair. I have heard of one of his 
habits, which I have never seen mentioned in any natural his- 
tory. In the spring, when the he-bear begins to travel, as he 
starts upon a path, he will rear upon his hind legs, and, with 
one of his fore-paws, reach as high as possible, and make a 
scratch in the bark of the tree. Another bear starts upon the 
same path, and, seeing the marked tree, he rears up, and, if 
he overreaches the other, travels forward with boldness and 
rapidity; but, if he cannot reach it, turns off in another direc- 
tion. The mark shows the size and strength of the bear. I 
have seen balsams perfectly torn to pieces, — marks extending 
up to six feet. Col. Crocket calls it making ' his mark.' The 
bear is not a dangerous animal, unless attacked ; but a wounded 
bear is certain to be a troublesome customer. They are con- 
siderably hunted, and are, perhaps, more plenty than the deer. 
Every one knows what the common red deer is, therefore I 
shall say nothing of him. Elk once existed in the mountains, 
but they are all gone. The wolves and wild-cats are nearly 
extinct, though their noise may sometimes yet be heard in the 
wild spots. The gray squirrel of the lowlands exists there, too ; 
but little, however, is seen of the large fox squirrel. There 
is upon all the mountains, a little squirrel, in size between 
the gray and the ground squirrel, called, by the inhabitants, 
' mountain boomer.' If one will slip quietly into some re- 
tired vale, on the borders of the Black, of a summer evening 
he may see the woods perfectly alive with them, and hear 
a chattering more confused than Bedlam itself. They are 
a pretty animal, of a light red color, the under portion of 



CHAPTER XV. 101 

the body very white. Then there is the ground-hog. As his 
name indicates, he burrows in the ground, and, like the prairie 
dog, builds a perfect city. He is about as large as a medium- 
sized opossum, and has similar hair. His color is a sort of 
dark gray. I believe all these animals are eaten by the people 
of that section. I cannot pass from wild things without men- 
tioning the pheasant, a bird about the size of a pullet, which 
runs, rather than flies; and, when taken, and well served up, 
is most delicious eating. They abound all over the West. 

'' And now, from that delight of epicures, I will pass to a 
subject, which, to some of your readers, may be disagreeable, 
the snakes. The commonly received opinion is, that the 
mountains are filled with rattlesnakes, and, at every step, one 
is seen. But such is far from fact. In all my rambles, not a 
few, I have yet to see a rattlesnake, or any other considered 
poisonous. The rattlesnake has great injustice done him. He 
is ever more ready to get out of the way than to fight, and 
never attacks unless he thinks he has been assailed. He is 
more irascible at some seasons than others ; but, so far as I 
could judge, the mountaineers generally do not mind them, I 
know of particular rocks where they can be seen and killed at 
any time, but it is only there ; and, by avoiding those places, 
the traveller may go all over the mountains and not meet with 
one. The hog is a deadly enemy of the rattlesnake. I once 
asked a mountaineer why it was the snake could not hurt a 
hog ? He replied, that he didn't know, unless it was that the 
first time the devil was heard of, after he left the serpent, he 
went into the swine. The other poisonous snakes of the moun- 
tains are rare, the adders and copper-snake. The moccasin of 
the mountains is not considered poisonous ; and a gentleman 
told me he had seen the Indians let them bite their feet, and 
no bad result ensued. These half-brutes, however, will, I am 
credibly informed, keep rattlesnakes in their houses as we do 

9- 



102 iMOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

tame cats. A gentleman told me he once entered an Indian hut, 
and saw the Indian crouched up on one side of the fire-place, 
and, on the other, lay a large rattlesnake in his coil. Sup- 
posing the Indian did not see it, he was about to strike it with 
his cane, when the Indian prevented him, saying, ^ He good 
snake.' As may be imagined, he did not stay there long. I 
am told that sometimes they act as watch-dogs, and will make 
a horrible din with their rattles on the approach of a stranger. 
A person who once hears that noise, never forgets it. It seems 
shriller, more piercing among the crags and mountains, than 
in the swamps of the East. A singular fact it is, that where 
the balsam growth begins, on the Black, and other mountains, 
there the existence of poisonous snakes ends." 

These remarks will apply to the whole "West, as the animals 
and plants are nearly the same throughout. However, many 
think that Yancey has the best soil, and is naturally the richest 
county in the West. The writer omitted to mention the moun- 
tain trout. This beautiful fish is found in most mountain 
streams, but exists in greater abundance in those which are 
comparatively wild, and whose banks are uncultivated. North 
and South Toe Kivers abound with them. The Upper Swan- 
nanoa has considerable. They are found in Buck Creek, near 
Carson's ; and in Pigeon and Nantihala Rivers, and many 
other streams, they are found in abundance. The Nantihala 
(spelled by the Indians Nantihaitla, and meaning maiden's 
bosom), is especially famous for its trout. The fish itself is 
one of the loveliest creatures the eye ever beheld. It has no 
scales, and is covered with a thin, clear skin, of a brownish 
black on top, with yellow underneath, interspersed with spots 
of blue, purple, and crimson. It will keep, without the least 
taint, for several days. Fishing for them is fine sport, as one 
does not have to wait forever for a bite ; but, if there is a fish 
in the waters, it bites as soon as the hook is thrown in. 



CHAPTER XV. 103 

And now, closing our last chapter with that purest of living 
creatures, which derives its more than earthly beauty from 
near the skies, we trust that many of our readers may visit the 
Mountains, and, in the fresh air and pleasant rambles, find 
much pleasure, or renewed health. 



APPENDIX. 



THE PILOT 3I0UNTAIN AND THE PIEDMONT SPRINGS, OP 

STOKES. 

There is, in the more eastern portion of North Carolina, 
some curiosities of nature, and some health-giving waters, 
which deserve a passing notice. We allude to that strange 
phenomena of nature, — the Pilot Mountain, and the Piedmont 
Springs, of Stokes ; and we may not be out of place in allud- 
ing to Kittrell's Springs, in Granville, and the long-known 
Shocco Springs. 

The Pilot Mountain is situated in the eastern end of Surry, 
near the line of that county and Stokes. It rises, an isolated 
pile, in the midst of a plain. No other mountain, or even 
considerable hills, being within many miles of it. It would 
seem as if the mountains, having concentrated all their strength, 
make in it a last desperate effort and die away. There is a 
hotel kept at the foot of the mountain, where many travellers 
resort in the hot season. 

''The ascent of the mountain to the spring, an agreeable 
spot of refreshment, more than half way to the top, is so 
gradual that the visitor may proceed on horseback. From this 



106 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

spot the acclivity becomes steeper, until you reach the pin- 
naclCj which presents an elevation of some two hundred feet. 
The only pass to the summit is on the north side, narrow, 
steep, and laborious of ascent ; yet it is considered by no means 
a difficult achievement. And the visitor is rewarded for his 
toil by an enchanting prospect of the surrounding country and 
nu)untain scenery in the distance. The dense and wide- 
stretching forest appears dotted with farms and hamlets. The 
Blue Ridge reposes in a long line of mountain heights on the 
northwest. Eastward, in Stokes County, the Saura Town 
Mountains rise to the view, — some of whose summits exceed 
the Pilot in height. And the Yadkin River, flowing down 
from the hills of Wilkes, and washing the western base of the 
mountain, ' rolls its silvery flood,' in a mazy line of light, 
through the wilderness. The Pilot Mountain is nearly or 
quite three thousand feet above the level of the sea. Its posi- 
tion and form, not height, make it an object of interest. 

" At a point on the road, between the Little Yadkin and 
Mount Airy, the traveller may obtain the most singular, and, 
perhaps, the finest view of the Pilot. One end of the moun- 
tain is there presented to the beholder in its most perfect py- 
ramidal form. Its vast sides are seen sweeping up from the 
surrounding forest, gradually approaching and becoming steeper, 
until they terminate at the perpendicular and altar-like mass 
of rock which forms the summit. It here gives an idea of 
some gigantic work of art, so regular, and so surprisingly 
similar are the curves of its outlines, and so exactly over the 
centre, does the towering pinnacle appear to be placed. 

" It satisfies the eye, and fills the soul with a calm and 
Bolemn delight to gaze upon the Pilot. Whether touched by 
the fleecy clouds of morning, or piercing the glittering skies 
of noon, or reposing in the mellow tints of evening ; whether 
bathed in the pale light of the moon, or enveloped in the 
surges of the tempest, with the lightning flashing around its 



ArPENDlX. 107 

brow, it stands ever, ever the same; its foundations in the 
depths of the earth, and its summit rising in solitary grandeur 
to the heavens, just as it rose, under its Maker's hand, on the 
morning of creation, and just as it shall stand when the last 
generation shall gaze upon it for the last time." 

The Pilot Mountain is reached from Green sborous-h, or 
High Point, to Salem, by Clemmens & Co.'s line of stages; 
from thence by hired conveyance. Salem is a very pretty and 
quiet town, and will well repay a visit. The cemetery is a 
favorite walk, and will, probably, compare with anything of 
the kind in the South. A gentleman, who had travelled over 
much of Europe, once said that Salem reminded him more of 
a German village than any place he had seen in this country. 
There is a Female Institute of much celebrity and age in the 
place. The town was originally settled by the Moravians, and 
still bears many marks of their taste and public spirit. 

Twenty-five miles from Salem, and about twenty from the 
Pilot, in an east direction, lie the Piedmont Springs of Stokes. 
The water of these springs is chiefly iron. There is said, how- 
ever, to be one slightly tinctured with alum. They are located 
just at the foot of the Saura Town Mountains, and present 
many fine views of those peaks ; while, in the west, is seen 
the Pilot. The springs have, of late, been much resorted to. 
The country around is very pretty, but does not bear compari- 
son with the Blue Ridge region. 

For those who do not feel inclined to visit the Mountains, 
or who are in search of pleasure, more than health. North Ca- 
rolina offers, in her more eastern section, the far-famed and 
much-resorted-to Shocco Springs. This very fashionable 
watering-place is crowded, year after year, by the gay, the 
fashionable, and the staid, from every Southern State. Its 
proprietor furnishes every facility for the comfort or amuse- 
ment of his guests. The waters are of a valuable medicinal 
character ; but, we believe, it is more a resort for the seeker 



108 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

of pleasure than health. They are located in Warren County, 
about four miles from the Warrenton depot, on the Raleigh 
and Graston Railroad, at which point stages are always ready 
to convey passengers. 

In Granville County, one mile from the railroad, is located 
Kittrell's Spring. The water is of iron, and, like all such 
water, is very invigorating to the system. Professor Emmons 
says: ''Kittrell's Spring furnishes a valuable water, and may 
be resorted to, in many cases of debility, with a reasonable 
expectation of a cure; and, when good accommodations are 
provided, we expect it will be one of the favorite watering- 
places of the State." 



FOa AND RAIN IN THE MOUNTAINS. 



BY DAVID CHRISTY. 



NORTH CAROLINA AS A HOME FOR THE INVALID. 

Such phenomena, as those of the Clayton fogs, though rare, 
are not the only instances in which the accumulating clouds 
of one district, borne along by the winds, are dissolved in 
another, and may again reappear in a third. Some years since, 
on the coast of England, there occurred an instance of the 
appearance and disappearance of a cloud, with its reappearance 
again at a point not far distant. It came floating onward 
toward an arm of the sea, where it disappeared at the moment 
of coming above the water. On, and on, it came, for hours, 



APPENDIX. 109 

but seemed to make no progress beyond the margin of the sea. 
It was soon observed, however, that the cloud was reforming 
on the opposite coast, and continued, as long as the first cloud 
lasted, to float onward from that point, at a rate of speed equal 
to that of the first from which its vapor was derived. The 
cause of this remarkable occurrence is to be found in the fact, 
that the atmosphere, over the arm of the sea, was warmer and 
had less humidity than that of the land on either side. 

It frequently happens that clouds hang around the summits 
of mountains, though the particles which compose them are 
continually changing. An example of this occurs upon the 
St. Gothard, a mountain in Switzerland, about six thousand 
feet above the sea. Dark, heavy clouds, that form on one side 
of the mountain, are frequently seen pressing rapidly over its 
summit, and descending, in dense masses, into the vale of 
Tremola, on the opposite side, where they are immediately 
dissolved by the warm, dry air, into which they are precipi- 
tated.* 

The vapor, which rolled through the notch into the cove, 
noticed in the first part of this article, had, doubtless, formed 
the night previous in the valley of Cheoah River, which lies 
directly to the westward. Overshadowed by the mountains, 
the atmosphere of that river must have been cooler than that 
of the cove, into which the sun was brightly shining. Two 
masses of air, both of which must have been saturated with 
vapor, being thus brought into contact, the temperature was 
diminished, and the excess of moisture precipitated. 

And now, kind reader, allow me to say, that your dyspeptic 
friends, if once settled among these mountains, would soon be 
restored to health. Some have tried it with abundant success. 



* Brocklesby's Meteorology. 
10 



110 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

The water from these crystalHne rocks is wholly destitute of 
lime, or so nearly so that molluscs in the rivers cannot con- 
struct their shells, and are, consequently, very rarely to be 
found. There is no stagnant water, hereabouts, in ponds and 
marshes, to produce malaria. The water of the springs is as 
clear as crystal, except when rendered grumly by dashing 
rains, and is far sweeter and more palatable than the best 
filtered water of the lowlands. Send a dyspeptic to a water- 
cure establishment, if you will, to take his daily rounds in 
drinking cold water, and walking his one mile or six miles per 
day, to keep from dying : feed him on bran bread, and slices 
of bacon-side, lest he overtask his digestive organs : you might 
as well send him to the tread-mill for exercise, and put a box 
of bran before him to satisfy his hunger, as though he were a 
blind horse. Send your dyspeptic friends to such places if 
you will ', but I shall not do so with mine. I shall place a 
gun in his hand, and, if necessary, give him a horse to carry 
him to the pathways of the deer in these mountains. The 
hounds shall accompany him, and, coursing the forests, shall 
start the noble buck and give him chase. As the animal 
dashes along its wonted route, to escape its pursuers, I shall 
not ask my invalid friend to dismount, and be prepared for the 
shot as the game passes. He will do this almost by instinct ; 
and, if a wound is given, not instantly fatal, I shall not instruct 
him to give chase, along with the dogs, to be in at the death. 
He will do this involuntarily, and will run a mile or two with- 
out thinking of his feebleness. When success has crowned 
his exertions, I shall not prescribe cold water; he will soon 
seek the mountain-stream, and drink of it plentifully. When 
he reaches home, with his buck before him on his horse, and 
an appetite created by the exercise and excitement of the 
scenes through which he has passed, I shall not set before him 
the rude fodder of the Grahamite. His knife will soon sup- 



APPENDIX. Ill 

ply him with steaks of the venison, and a spit of wood will 
serve to cook it in the blazing fire. His blood, now coursing 
freely in his veins, will carry with it the elements of digestion, 
and a hearty meal of the wild meat will sit lightly upon his 
stomach. A routine of such sports, amidst turkeys, deer, and 
bears, all of which abound in these mountains, will rejuvenate 
almost any man not radically diseased. 



113 



EAGLE HOTEL. 

ASHEVILLE, BUNCOMBE COUNTY, N. C. 



The undersigned begs leave to call the attention of the 
travelling public to the fact that he has recently taken charge 
of this celebrated Hotel ; that he will have it thoroughly re- 
paired and in perfect order by the 1st of June, 1859 j and 
that he is determined to spare neither pains nor money in 
order to make his guests perfectly comfortable and at home 
while they sojourn at the Eagle Hotel. Especially would 
the subscriber call his Hotel to the attention of Eastern North 
Carolinians, who may, for health or pleasure, visit this beau- 
tiful and romantic mountain country ; than which, no other 
section of the Union can furnish a purer or more invigorating 
atmosphere, cooler or more refreshing fountains of water, or 
more sublime and picturesque scenery. The undersigned will 
give a cordial greeting and hospitable cheer to all who will 
honor him with their patronage. 

J. M. BLAIR, 

February, 1859. Proprietor. 

10* 



114 



WALTON HOUSE. 

MORGANTON, NORTH CAROLINA. 



U. S. MAIL LINE. 
FOUR HORSE COACHES. 

FROM THE TERMIXUS OF THE WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA RAILROAD 

TO ASHEVILLE, VIA MORGANTON, MARION, PLEASANT 

GARDENS, AND SWANNANOA GAP. 

This is the most direct; nearest, and decidedly the most 
pleasant route to Asheville. The whole route is gone over in 
daylight. The traveller rests over night in Morganton, dines 
at Carson's on the Catawba, and is in Asheville to supper. He 
has a fine view of the different mountains on the route, and 
among them the celebrated peak of the Black Mountains, — 
Mount Mitchell. 

C. S. BROWN, 

ProjTrietor. 

MORaANTON, N. C. 



115 



BUCK HOTEL. 

ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA, 



This Hotel is favorably located in tlie centre of the town 
of Asheville. From it many fine views of the surrounding 
country are to be had. 

The table will always be supplied with the very best the 
market affords, and attentive servants will always be at hand 
to attend to the wants of guests. The Proprietor will use all 
means in his power to please his visitors and make them com- 
fortable. 

The office of the Southern, Gaston, and Murphy stages, is 

at this house. 

JAS. H. GUDGER, 

Proprietor. 



116 



LIVERY AND SALE STABLES. 

ASHEVILLLE, N. C. 

OFFICE AT GUDGER'S (BUCK) HOTEL. 

The undersigned respectfully calls the attention of travel- 
lers, traders, and others, to the fact that they keep constantly 
on hand a large and excellent assortment of 

CARRIAGES, HACKS, BUGGIES, AND SADDLE-HORSES, 
and will convey persons to any point with despatch, comfortj 
and safety. They have in their employ none but sober, expe- 
rienced, and careful drivers; such as will take pleasure in 
promoting the comfort of all committed to their charge. Spe- 
cial accommodations to those visiting the Black Mountains. 

Horses boarded by the day, week, or month, on reasonable 
terms, and placed in the hands of experienced hostlers. 

Good pastures can be furnished to any who may wish their 
horses pastured during the summer. 

SULLIVAN & PATTON. 



THE BLACK MOUNTAINS. 

THE MOUNTAIN HOUSE, 

Upon one of the peaks of this great natural curiosity, will 
be open for the reception of visitors early in July. It will be 
kept in the best style, and visitors may always expect a hearty 
welcome and excellent fare. Terms of board moderate. 

A new turnpike road has been lately constructed from Judge 
Bailey's residence on the Swannanoa, via this House, to the 
highest peak. It will afford facilities heretofore unknown to 
the traveller. 

Any one desiring a comfortable night's rest in the highest 
house in the Southern States, perhaps in the United States, 
should not fail to stop over night and enjoy a sight of the 
lovely sunrise. 

T. T. PATTON. 



117 




>«lfflfffli^Y" a'a-»'-»-~-^ 



FRENCH BROAS LINE 



FOUK HORSE STAGES, 

From Asheville, ]^. C, to Greenville, Tenn., run- 
ning down the French Broad River through the 
grandest scenery of the^world, crossing the Moun- 
tains in full view of the Painted Rocks. 

This line of stages, said by all who travel upon it to be one 
of the best in the Union, leaves Asheville daily, Sundays ex- 
cepted, at 5f o'clock, and connects with the train upon the 
East Tennessee and Virginia Railroad, at Greenville, at 7^ 
o'clock. 'Passengers can breakfast at M. A. Alexander's, and 
dine at the Warm Springs, — both eating-houses unsurpassed 
in this country. Fare from Asheville to Springs, $3; to 
Greenville, $6. 

W. P. BLAIR, 

Proprietor. 



118 



WARM SPRINGS. 



This deliglitful watering-place, situated in Madison County, 
North Carolina, will be opened for the reception of guests, 
under the charge of its old proprietors, McDowell & Patton, 
about the 1st of Jul3^ 

The location is all that the seekers for health and pleasure 
can desire. Situated immediately on the French Broad River, 
and surrounded by extensive mountain ranges, it affords a 
climate and scenery unsurpassed in any country. 

The temperature of the water ranges from 96° to 100° 
Fahrenheit, and the use of the waters has proved invaluable 
in cases of 

RHEUMATISM, DROPSY, PARALYSIS, CUTANEOUS AFFECTIONS, 

and various other diseases. 

Hare opportunities are afforded for hunting, fishing, driving, 
and mountain excursions. 

A daily line of four-horse mail coaches runs between Green- 
ville, Tenn., and Greenville, S. C, passing through Hender- 
sonville and Asheville, and immediately by these Springs, and 
accommodation conveyances are always in readiness to carry 
passengers to and from either place, and all the intermediate 
points. 

Distance from Greenville, Tenn., 25 miles; and from Ashe- 
ville, 37. The roads are good, and the scenery along the 
French Broad, between Asheville and the Springs, beautiful 
and picturesque. The buildings are large, handsome, and 
commodious ; the servants experienced and well-trained ; the 
table will always be supplied with the best the country affords, 
and the charges as moderate as those of any similar establish- 
ment — $1 50 per day, 18 per week, 130 per month. 

An experienced physician is resident at the Springs. 

A splendid band of music is engaged for the season. 

February, 1858. 



119 



W. L. POMEEOY, 

BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER, 

RALEIGH, NORTH CAROLINA, 



Keeps constantly on hand a large assortment of all the 
standard works of the day. School-books for all courses, — 
academical, collegiate, and primary. The best assortment of 
Books that is to be found in the City of Raleigh is at his 
establishment. Every work in religious, miscellaneous, or 
political literature, may be called for, and if not on hand, will 
be immediately ordered for the purchaser. 

All new books from the principal publishing houses in this 
country received as soon as issued. 

All varieties of blank-books and stationery, envelopes, &c., 
kept on hand and sold by wholesale or retail. 

Orders promptly attended to. 



120 



LITHOGRAPH VIEWS. 

r 

Large lithograph views (for framing) of the town of Ashe- 
ville, and Hickory-Nut Falls, for sale by 

JAS. M. EDNEY, 

147 Chambers St., N. Y. 



S. S. WEAKS, 
ARTIST3 

ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA, 



Will execute paintings, drawings of scenery, or portraits, 
whenever called on. 



NORTH CAROLINA 

FAYETTEVILLE. 

Pension and Bounty Land Claims prosecuted. 

No charge made unless money or la7id is recovered. 
Pension-money collected from U. S. Agency at Fayetteville. 

BLANKS THKREFOB FURNISHED GRATIS. 

Collections made and promptly remitted. Discounts procured and 
Notes renewed at either of the Banks. 

THE HIGHEST CASH PRICE PAID FOR LAND WARRANTS. 

JOHN M. ROSE. 



228 93 






»&«o^ 






^ '*^o ciV '* 












% - 



P'^.'CS 


































• 







%cS>" 










o 






\^'' 



■^""V • 


















I- 



^^^<^ 

.^^""-^. 












©no* 

















omo 



*^ * %».♦ Oft ^ 






X 



■3^i 



^^ 


















X 

o 



%<^^ 

J-^. 






•o^ • 








HECKMAN 

BINDERY »NC. 

APR 93 

N. MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA 46962 









LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 419 063 4 O 



